This new Mexican restaurant has us booking one-way flights to the Sunshine State.
In a city where there’s a Guzman y Gomez on what feels like every second street corner, some of them drive-throughs, and a Taco Bell south of the river, it’s clear there’s a big appetite for Mexican cuisine in Brisbane. And yet, until recently, the quality has been erring on the side of fast food.
Now, in a partially subterranean spot along Fortitude Valley’s Brunswick Street, a brand-new SoCal-influenced Mexican locale has opened its doors, bringing a refreshing offering in tow.
In the kitchen at Baja, chef Julio Aguilera has designed a menu that reflects his mother’s Baja heritage and his learnings following time spent working in Oaxaca. During Julio’s time in Mexico, he worked on the pans at El Destilado, where he met Valerie Frei, Baja’s now head chef.

A notable cocktail menu at Baja is the work of bartender Alicel Caasi, who has stocked the bar with a remarkable selection of small-batch and artisanal tequilas and mezcals – befitting both the flavoursome food menu and Brisbane’s balmy climate.
As you enter the considered sophisticated yet laid-back space, guests can expect to be greeted by owner Daniel Quinn, who, having refined his hospitality skills in London and Sydney, has set his focus on the front-of-house experience. And, it shows. The service here is welcoming, knowledgable and relaxed.

The menu at Baja is every bit contemporary, seeing authentic Mexican flavours brought to new life in creative fashion. The offerings open with botanas, or snacks, including all-important guacamole, fruit served with mint and a citrus-chilli vinaigrette, and esquites – a sweet corn dish served in corn broth with lemon garlic aioli, grated parmesan and ancho chile powder.

Entradas, or entrees feature fried cauliflower served with a brown butter and parmesan crumb, fermented green chilli yoghurt and cauliflower mole. The toast of this writer’s table was a close tie between the raw king fish with habanero coconut milk, chilli oil, cucumber and fried shallots, and the twice-cooked octopus tentacles with citrus, chilli oil and a squid-ink burnt jalapeno soy sauce.

Baja is now open at 211, Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane. For more information, visit bajamodernmexican.com and keep your eyes peeled for menu and opening hours updates on the restaurant’s Instagram.
Photography by Judit Losh.
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