There’s been high anticipation about the opening of both, but it’s Bonito, the restaurant at Byron’s inaugural five-star hotel, Marvell, that was first off the starter’s blocks.

Fronting Byron’s Marvell Street, it’s clear Bonito was designed to be a standalone restaurant, – eschewing as it does, the usual hotel-restaurant typecasting and cookie-cutter practicality, for bespoke beauty.

Aesthetes will appreciate the mark of a craftsman’s hands on the custom-made joinery – the graceful curved banquettes and refined cabinetry, (made by co-owner Scott Emery’s own shopfitting company) along with nubby linen napery, water tumblers fashioned from recycled beach glass and one-off plateware. Wood, tile, greenery and glowing amber walls inset with discreet lighting mean it’s an elegant but welcoming space that’s as appealing for a holiday date-night as a small group catch-up.

Hanging in an aging cabinet outside the open plan kitchen, the shimmery striped livery of a clutch of bonito, references both the restaurant’s namesake and the direction of the menu.

Head chef is Minh Le, most recently of The Byron at Byron, Spicers Peak Lodge on the Scenic Rim and Brisbane’s “The Foraging Quail.” His passion for the water, (he is a mad keen surfer) extends to its bounty and the menu tilts decisively towards the piscatorial, a natural enough position, given Byron’s coastal location and endless summer vibe.

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Plates are small to medium, made to share as a slow, lazy graze, the produce drawn from the hinterland farms and the local fishing fleet and given a deft pan-Asian flavour infusion.

Buttermilk, with glistening droplets of XO prawn oil and curls of cucumber spill around a trio of sweet Ballina prawns; tender locally-caught loligo squid comes with a relish made with Bangalow tomatoes, grapes and a striking squid ink tuille. Hiramasa kingfish is served with a vibrant Thai pesto, kaffir lime, orange, and coconut, while oysters, sourced from wherever they’re at their peak, take inspiration from Japan, their fresh brininess dialled up with a complex dressing featuring yuzu, dashi, sake, mirin and more, topped with tiny popping spheres of tobiko.

Vegetarians, vegans and diners whose preference is for meatier proteins aren’t left out either, whether Bangalow beets dressed in coconut yoghurt, hemp seed, and charred herb oil, or a 9+ wagyu striploin with potato and greens of betel leaf, shiso and green nahm jim.

Just off the main street, Bonito’s far enough from the hubbub but not so far you won’t sense that electric energy that seems to touch anyone lucky to live here. And if you’re not one of those blessed locals, Hotel Marvell is now open, so you can dine and stay.

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