Charcoal Fish, the highly anticipated new opening by fish whisperer Josh Niland, will swing open its doors in Rose Bay, next Wednesday, September 15. 

The new restaurant is inspired by the charcoal chicken shop model; one of simple luxury that has elevated the takeaway chook for many Australian families. Now Niland will do the same for fish.

“Saint Peter had the intention to elevate the standard of fish, to show that there’s a lot more going on than a couple of fillets. This does the same,” Josh Niland tells delicious. 

Family is at the core of Charcoal Fish. “We’re creating an offering that isn’t really available in the fish world, borne from the thinking of going to the local fish shop but also the ease and frequency you buy a chook”. Niland says this isn’t the deep-fried model; a treat food that a family would have maybe every couple of weeks. It’s more a midweek ritual with the kids, parents and even grandparents. 

Some would say the star of the show is Niland, but he’s pretty adamant that it’s the Aquna Murray cod that forms the backbone of the menu. It is, in effect, the chicken in this concept. Produced in Griffith, New South Wales, Murray cod is a sweet white fish that’s superb on the grill. It remains both juicy in the flesh and crisp on the skin.

Niland says there’s been a stigma attached to this particular fish, especially with older generations. “When people talk about flavour profile it was seen as muddy, but the science and ingenuity applied by the Aquna brand means it’s not the Murray cod of the past.” 

According to Niland it is “extraordinary off the grill,” thanks in part to the conditioning of the skin. As is Niland’s method the fish is scaled, dried and has little or no water contact, before being hung for a minimum of 3 days. “When it goes onto intense heat the puffed-up skin is almost like crackling,” he adds.

So, what can you expect when Charcoal Fish opens? Niland says that you’ll see whole Murray cod slowly turning over charcoal. There will be boneless fillet for rotisserie cod and gravy rolls, and a salad of rotisserie cod, skin, butter lettuce, avocado and charcoal roasted tomatoes. That gravy is of course made in house using the Murray cod heads, frames and fins. Described as the “big-ticket item” there’s a grilled square of butterflied, boneless Murray cod, as a whole fillet, half, quarter or single. For a finger lickin’ snack, there’s also the BBQ Murray cod wings doused in tamarind hot sauce. 

From a sustainability point of view Murray cod is perfect for Charcoal Fish says Niland, in the way it’s reared, with low amounts of feed required to bring it to a commercial size and importantly “the culinary opportunity is unbelievable”. Around eight percent of the fish is gills and gall bladder, not suited to culinary treatments, but every other part will be used at one of the three Niland businesses. “That’s most exciting for me and really the menu wrote itself with the opportunity from that one fish,” says Niland.

It is, as you’d expect from a chef who has pushed the fin-to-scale movement globally, an operation that will push the yield per fish way beyond that of conventional kitchens. At Saint Peter collars will be charcoal grilled and served with a fermented tamarind hot sauce, the fat from the fish will be rendered and added to Murray cod fat caramel ice cream. Offal will be removed and used in charcuterie at Fish Butchery.

This isn’t a fish shop in the mould of Saint Peter or Fish Butchery, says Niland. “It’s honest, grilled over fire, no bones, none of the confrontation or odours that some people have with fish. It’s the way that a fish business has to run, elevating the question of waste. It’s ignorant to think you can defrost, and fry something at the lowest price.” So is it the evolution of Australian fish and chips? “Absolutely,” says Niland.

Charcoal Fish will open for takeaway from September 15. Diners can take their catch down to nearby Rose Bay beach or eat at home. Post lockdown, the venue will have a dozen or so stools at a counter orientation for dining in.

Charcoal Fish
670 New South Head Road, Rose Bay Sydney
Wed – Sun 12pm – 9pm
charcoalfish.com