With a slew of cult eateries and bars, Enmore Road is gaining serious food cred, says writer Alison Pickel.
Once home to a string of empty stores and seemingly endless Thai eateries, Enmore Road is now abuzz with diverse, delicious cafes, bars and restaurants.
Enmore Road’s new-wave food revolution kicked off in 2012 with the opening of this rock star restaurant from husband-and-wife team Gregory Llewellyn and Naomi Hart. Gregory’s American roots shine through with never-can-take-off-the-menu dishes such as fried chicken with pork gravy, and an oyster po’boy that combines a super-soft English muffin, crunchy deep-fried oyster and sweet, creamy coleslaw. Their soft-serve cone of the week – which might be inspired by banana bread or Twinkies – is food art worthy of Instagram glory.
33 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 8068 1473
A turophile’s dream, the tightly curated selection at The Stinking Bishops features fantastic and unusual cheeses from Europe and Australia. Go simple with a cheese and charcuterie platter matched to a crisp, citrusy fiano, or explore the dairy-enriched dinner menu including creamy burrata with raw peas and salsa verde, and a grown-up mac ’n’ cheese with artichokes. Shop 5/63-71 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 9007 7754
Pizza is always a crowd-pleaser, and this recently opened Napoli-style pizzeria delivers on the smiles. A chewy, blistered wood-fired crust might be topped with generous chilli prawns, or earthy porcini mushrooms and truffle paste, while the margherita (the benchmark for all authentic pizzerias) shines with a rich San Marzano tomato sauce and delicately sweet fior di latte cheese.
Shop 2/52-60 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 8065 4224
If you’ve got more time…
East meets West, with a surprising yet satisfying mix of German- and Asian-influenced grazing-style dishes. 163 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 8068 9917
Fine Italian share plates with one of the best-value degustations in town.
158 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 8068 5202
If you want something quick…
Ask any local cabbie his pick for a late-night eat, and chances are he’ll direct you to this Pakistani and Indian gem. Authentic, flavour-bomb dishes that are easy on the wallet make this no-frills eatery a perfect place to fuel up before a gig at Enmore Theatre. 194-196 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 9550 4850
Bake Kobo is one of Sydney’s few independant Japanese bakeries. With a slightly sweeter dough than its European counterparts, you’ll be delighted by whimsical custard-filled bears; red bean doughnuts; savoury wasabi, mayo and bacon rolls; or a moreish beef curry hot pocket. For your daily bread, there are also French-style loaves including a wonderful sourdough baguette.
Shop 3/63-71 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 043 490 5485
Crowned best gelato in the world in 2014, this former Inner West secret now has queues around the block. The family-run gelateria keeps things mostly traditional, with stellar options such as pistachio, passionfruit or their award-winning almond affagato, allowing the quality natural ingredients to do all the talking. 181 Enmore Rd, Enmore
For another sweet fix option, try this alternative ice cream parlour. Turkish-style ice cream has a slightly chewier texture than Italian gelato, and Hakiki’s flavour combos lean to the different as well – perhaps rockmelon paired with salty feta, or smashed-up baklava swirled through vanilla. It’s also the place to come for your apple tea or Turkish coffee fix.
Shop 1/63-71 Enmore Rd, Enmore Road
Discover why their caramelised pork belly roll is a frequent contender on Sydney’s best bahn mi lists. 115 Enmore Rd, Enmore
Raw, organic, vegan (and damn tasty, too) – this cafe is serving up the most virtuous lunches and desserts around.
147 Enmore Rd, Enmore
If you want a drink…
The little sister of Inner West darling Hartsyard, The Gretz offers a sharp cocktail list (don’t miss the Lovely Mary – a sweeter, aquavit-spiked take on the bloodier version) matched to Gregory Llewellyn’s seafood small bites, such as hot and cold oysters, and uni (sea urchin roe) toast. 125 Enmore Rd, Enmore
Dark, a little grungy, and oh-so-cool, small bar Midnight Special has rock ’n’ roll running through its veins. Sit at the bar or hide in one of the booths near the back, and order a tinnie or a fresh apple juice and gin to go with your $10 smoked frankfurt hot dog with all the trimmings.
44 Enmore Rd, Enmore Tel: 02 9516 2345
Owner Marco Taddeo never wants you to drink the same glass twice at this little wine bar, changing up the list fortnightly with a mix of reasonably priced Old and New World drops. 55 Enmore Rd, Enmore
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