Restaurants

This new bunker bar on Flinders Lane is slinging nori martinis

Ototo_May_PD_22_4

Akaiito’s lil' bro has moved in downstairs, and he's much more chill.

The family resemblance is strong when it comes to Japanese fine diner Akaiito and its new sibling restaurant Otōto, which means little brother in Japanese.

But there’s no picking favourites, both offer a completely different dining experience.

Akaiito is known for its 11-course robatayaki-inspired degustation menu, which is served omakase-style from a central open bar.

Like typical younger brothers, Otōto is a little less serious. The subterranean space offers a more laid-back experience, where diners can swing by for a cheeky nori martini and a selection of pan-Asian snacks.

“As people return to the city we wanted our downstairs space to evolve into its own independent venue and offering,” Otōto executive chef Winston Zhang tells delicious.

“As a literal Otōto (to Akaiito), we see it being an informal place to meet friends and share a bite to eat, or to gather for an after-work drink or weekend celebration.”

Otōto lets you choose your own adventure, with a selection of small plates designed to share, with inspiration for the menu coming from Japan, as well as China, Korea and Malaysia.

Ototo_Kingfish Sashimi, on Salt Rock, Grapefruit, Daikon, Ponzu

“Everything on the menu is personally what I would want to eat at a casual restaurant,” Zhang says.

Snacks include the mussels escabeche on toast draped with wagyu bresaola and the whipped fish roe, a Chinese take on taramasalata, served with crispy fried mantou bread in place of the pita.

There’s also housemade chicken and prawn dumplings with a fermented chilli and vinegar dipping sauce. “We make them very traditional – it’s actually the same recipe my mum used to make for me,” says Zhang.

For something more substantial, there’s the black angus short ribs, which are sous vide in bo ssam marinade for 48 hours, then served with kimchi, pickled radish and lettuce, which you can wrap up and eat with your hands.

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A cocktail program, created by consultant George Leung and bartender Lionel Ong, focuses on savoury sippers, including the signature nori martini with a dash of soy sauce and a seaweed rim and a shiitake-infused rum.

Related story: Settle in for dinner and a show at Melbourne’s new 30-seater omakase restaurant 

Sustainability is front and centre at the bar, which uses Ecospirits, a reusable packaging distribution service. Cocktails have been created using a no-waste approach. “A single piece of fruit will be used in its entirety: pulp for puree; skins and cores macerated to create flavoured syrups, sodas and bases,” Leung says.

The interiors remain much the same, with Otōto a spitting image to its big bro upstairs.

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The former colonial-era bank vault has retained its bluestone walls, heritage iron grating and original ceiling beams. Slate grey banquettes line the wall, but the place to sit and sip remains the ruby red circular booth at the back.

Overhead, a sculptural red thread winds its way from Akaiito to Otōto, neatly tying the two restaurants together.

Ototo
239-351 Flinders Lane, Melbourne (underground) 8009
Tues-Sun 5pm-late
03 9620 1343
akaiitorestaurant.com.au

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