When top chef Ben Devlin announced the opening of his new restaurant Pipit last week, expectations for the smart casual fine diner in sleepy Pottsville, a 30 minutes’ drive north of his Byron Bay hometown, were high. But if the first lunch service on Saturday was anything to go by, fans of the ex-Paper Daisy chef’s multi-award-winning handiwork won’t be disappointed.

Named after a local coastal bird – which doubles as his four-month-old daughter’s nickname – Pipit’s aesthetic is quite the departure from the eclectic Mediterranean stylings of Devlin’s former Halcyon House digs. With its polished concrete floor, bare white walls and earthy ceramic tilework, the vibe is decidedly minimalist. Too minimalist, perhaps, but the design succeeds in drawing attention to the open kitchen that dominates the bright, airy corner block restaurant just a few hundred metres from the beach. With most of Pipit’s 40 seats arranged counter-style, diners who nab a perch at the kitchen or bar counter will be treated to views of Devlin and his team whipping up seriously delicious mod-Oz share plates that celebrate seasonal Northern Rivers produce and woodfire cooking.

With hoofed animals off the menu, the offerings focus heavily on seafood, with a succulent grilled spatchcock with native bunya nut forming the only land-based protein on the 14-dish menu. On top of forcing him to be more creative, Devlin says eschewing red meat is more fitting of the coastal lifestyle, and contributes to keeping Pipit’s price point accessible to locals. Indeed, with the four-course set menu ringing in at $75 (or $70 for all-veg), it’s fantastic value. But the key driver is sustainability.

“Restaurants are big consumers which make choices in how we source things, use things and dispose of things,” explains Devlin. “Through food we can help nudge some important public conversations.”

Having pledged to serve only sustainable seafood as part of the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Project, Pipit heroes underutilised species such as bonito, which comes marinated in banksia vinegar and sandwiched in a betel leaf.  Among Devlin’s producers is a local Aboriginal group who harvest pipis from nearby beaches. Devlin steams the pipis in kelp and serves them in an aromatic broth laden with local macadamias and crunchy wing beans.

The pipis pair beautifully with a Vanguardist riesling from the Clare Valley recommended by sommelier Matt Love (ex-Cutler & Co). If you’re in the mood for something stronger, try a cocktail crafted from Australia’s only agricole rum produced by Husk Distillers just down the road in Tumbulgum topped off with an unusual dessert such as the creamy jackfruit sorbet topped with fresh passionfruit and delicate coconut shards.

Supported by a friendly, approachable service team who don’t miss a beat, Pipit nails the relaxed coastal dining vibe that Devlin and his partner (in life and business) Yen Trinh have set out to create. With a little more personality injected into the furnishings, it’d be just about perfect.

Pipit Restaurant
Shop 4/ 8 Coronation Avenue, Pottsville, NSW
pipitrestaurant.com