With the reopening of The Kingston, owner Jon de Fraga says diners can expect more than a hint of comfort and decadence from what he describes as a marriage between a high-end steak restaurant and the best seafood.

Slated to reopen in 2020, as is the story of the age, Covid put the brakes on. A complete refurb has seen walls knocked down, the refitting of fireplaces and a custom-designed kitchen. A centrepiece dining room impresses with tan leather booths and tones of duck egg blue. “We’ll end up being nearly a year behind schedule,” says de Fraga, obviously relieved and excited to throw the doors open for a soft launch before the official opening on July 15.

“Whenever you travel overseas you come across some pretty good restaurants that are doing great seafood with great steaks. “But no one in Melbourne has really given it a go,” he says of the landscape five years ago when he first conceived of the project. Now, he concedes, there’s the likes of Botswana Butchery in Flinders Lane and Grill Americano. Melbourne has a taste for modern surf ‘n’ turf.

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Part of the opening team, including de Fraga and co-head chef Yallambar Bantawa, undertook a research trip to South America. There, they were put through their paces by award-winning chef Carlos Lopez at his Buenos Aires school for learning the art of asado. Bantawa also worked as a stagiaire (essentially an intern) at several restaurants in Buenos Aires and Sao Paulo as the group moved onto Brazil.

While the South American influence will be felt from the grill to the use of Peruvian ceviche, and snack items like Brazilian pastels (like an empanada), de Fraga says he wouldn’t classify The Kingston as serving an Argentinian or, more broadly, a South American-style menu.

There’s a nod in areas certainly, but, for example, their meat program uses the likes of Robbins Island wagyu from the north-west tip of Tasmania, and Rangers Valley beef from NSW will utilise their meat ageing cabinets, whereas Argentinian grill culture favours as little age as possible on meat. Alaskan king crab legs are to be sold by the pound and half pound, there will be whole lobsters, and classic grilled fish, like whole flounder. Diners can opt to add truffle, caviar, and foie gras to many dishes.

Diners can choose from four spaces to kick back and relax, from the Marble & Pearl dining room, to a public bar with fireplace and booth seating, a dog-friendly beer garden and alfresco deck. The wine list is a collection of de Fraga’s personal favourites. “I haven’t really focused on having two from here and seven from there.

“The question is, is it a great wine and do we like to drink it?” says de Fraga. “And if the answer is yes, then it went on.”

The list is 75 per cent Australian, while having a big nod to France, in particular Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne. Lovers of Pinot Noir will rejoice, de Fraga describing himself as “a bit of a pinot drinker”, before a rapid-fire rundown of the labels that made the list, including Mount Mary, Tolpuddle and Giant Steps.

The Kingston
55 Highett St, Richmond
03 9428 5841
Wed noon-11pm, Thu-Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-11pm
thekingstonhotel.com