Lines out the door in Redfern are usually a good sign, especially when they lead to bowls of creamy, rich tonkotsu and bitey, house-made Hakata-style noodles. This tiny shop was a key part of Sydney’s new-school ramen wave and has since spawned a sibling venue in Randwick. The pork bone broth is textbook cloudy and porky, the brothless mazesoba version has its own cult following, and the soy-based vegan option doesn’t feel like a compromise. Slurping is encouraged, the beers arrive cold and fast, and if you order a side of karaage, you absolutely will not regret it. 66b Regent St, Redfern; rararamen.com.au

It’s not every day you find proper tonkotsu in a suburban shopping village, but this cosy Glenmore Park diner is doing it right. The broth is rich and velvety, slow-cooked until the pork bones collapse into pure flavour, before landing in a bowl with springy noodles, a jammy egg and slices of melt-in-your-mouth chashu. There’s a crispy prawn ramen, if you like to live life a little differently, and the menu covers sushi and karaage too, but it’s the ramen that locals rave about. Friendly staff, generous portions and serious comfort in a bowl? Western Sydney could use more places like this. Glenmore Village, 90 Glenmore Ridge Dr, Glenmore Park; instagram.com/tatsuyaramen.sydney

Don’t let the polished vibe fool you; the ramen here is seriously comforting. Their tonkotsu bowl stars a creamy, slow-simmered pork broth that hugs the perfectly springy noodles, while tender chashu and a silky soft-boiled egg add layers of indulgence. The spicy ‘volcano ramen’ kicks things up a few notches with fresh chilli, chilli oil and spicy seasoning, making it a must for fireproof palettes. Beyond ramen, there’s a broad menu of sushi, udon and rice bowls, making it a solid all-rounder for pretty much any occasion. mikazuki.com.au

Anzac Parade isn’t short of great noodles, so it’s a testament to this buzzy spot that there’s an almost-perpetual queue snaking from the front door, folks clamouring to sample a line-up of deeply satisfying bowls that includes a signature ‘shio gara’ built on a chicken broth made with more than 15 ingredients. Broths lean clear and clean rather than fatty, though there’s meaty richness in the pork broth that’s been simmered for three days. Noodles are firm and slightly wavy, made off-site to the restaurant’s specs, with extra servings available with just a nod. There’s even a selection of kids’ ramen on offer, making Manpuku an obsession that the whole family can fall for. 82 Anzac Parade, Kingsford; ramenmanpuku.com/kingsford

There are tonkotsu broths, and then there’s the wall-to-wall pork explosion that’s ladled out every day in the back of the Eating World food court in Chinatown. Made by boiling hundreds of kilos of bones until they collapse into gelatine, Gumshara’s signature bowl is famously rich, thick and brutally satisfying. It’s not subtle and it’s definitely not light, but that’s the point. Add extra noodles, throw in a seasoned egg and take a nap after. Or grab some frozen ramen, so you don’t even have to leave the house for your next fix. Gumshara isn’t for the faint-hearted; it’s for the ramen faithful chasing broth nirvana. 9 Kimber Ln, Haymarket; gumshara.com

What began as a yakitori bar just off Darlinghurst’s main drag transformed into one of the most creative ramen spots in the city, with broth that’s just as bold as the decor. The OG is the ‘fat soy’, loaded with grilled pork and plenty of fatty, mouth-coating intensity, but the salty fish broth has just as much kick, and the yuzu scallop ramen bowl has become a local legend. It’s walk-ins only and usually full, but you’ll want to hang around for a seat, especially for the chewy noodles and perfectly molten egg. Bonus points for the playlist and cold sake. chacoramen.com.au

Bright yellow walls, hand-written menus and a ramen line-up that hasn’t changed in years – this little shop has long been the North Shore’s most reliable ramen bet. The tonkotsu-shoyu hybrid is a standout, rich with pork fat but cut with enough soy to keep things balanced. The miso version lands with a touch of sweetness, while the spicy bowl brings fire and smoothness in equal measures. Noodles are on the softer side, which suits the vibe: old-school, comforting and completely unpretentious. 125 Falcon St, Crows Nest; ryosramen.com.au

This Japanese juggernaut is no longer a novelty in Sydney, but it remains one of the most consistent players in the game. The tonkotsu broth is luxuriously creamy, the noodles are springy and thin, and the pork belly chashu is cut with precision and care. Try the Akamaru for a slick of miso garlic intensity, or go full throttle with the Karaka spicy bowl. Service is sharp, the drinks list is strong and there’s usually enough counter seating to dodge a wait. It’s a chain, sure, but a chain that still beats plenty of independents at their own game. stores.ippudo.com/en_au/australia

Tucked into a little brick nook on Bayswater Road, Bones Ramen is a 20-seat ramen bar that punches well above its weight. The Tokyo-style ‘double soup’ ramen is a standout, featuring a broth simmered overnight from pork bones, ham hocks, chicken feet and kombu, topped with hefty slices of tender chashu, a gooey soy egg and the house-made fish cake. Other options include a rich chicken broth, a seafood niboshi with prawn balls and sheets of scallop silk, and a mushroom broth loaded with vegies. The drinks list is proudly local, offering Australian craft beers and natural wines. With its intimate setting and meticulous attention to detail, Bones isn’t just a bowl of noodles, it’s a full-blown culinary experience. 4/51-57 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters Bay; bonesramen.com.au

The unassuming Oxford Street Mall frontage might not scream “top-tier ramen”, but Ichi-ban Boshi has quietly been feeding Sydney’s noodle-lovers since long before the trend hit full throttle. The tonkotsu here is lighter than most, with a soy-seasoned pork base that leans savoury instead of sticky. The Tokyo ramen is a translucent but umami-packed classic, while the cold hiyashi chuka in summer is refreshingly unexpected. There’s also a book-sized list of donburi, katsu and noodle dishes beyond ramen if you’re with fussy eaters. Not fancy, not Instagram-famous, but honest and satisfying like a ramen shop should be. 1/171-173 Oxford St, Bondi Junction; ichibanboshi.com.au

Brunch has a soundtrack in this cool space just off King Street: the low purr of motorcycles being fine-tuned downstairs. Upstairs in the AM, it’s all about the breakfast ramen: a bowl of bone broth tinged with the smoky whiff of buttered toast, and filled with tangled noodles and the holy trinity of bacon, grilled tomato and egg. The breakfast plate brings together maple-glazed pumpkin, fried kingfish, a dashi egg and other Japanese-inspired umami bites; the space balances the industrial and the personal; and Single O coffee ensures you stay sharp enough to dodge any Vespas on your way out. 1C Whateley St, Newtown; risingsunworkshop.com/

Part of the same empire as global ramen phenomenon Ippudo, Gogyo is renowned for its bubbling black broth, otherwise known as the charred kogashi ramen. Miso or soy sauce is added to a fiery pit of boiling lard, which blackens the chicken broth that follows. Bolstered by cabbage, chashu pork belly and half an egg, the rich, savoury broth is one of the city’s most complex. For something a little lighter, there’s the tonkotsu, a clean porcini boullion and a chilli shoyu, heaped with tomato, coriander and habanero pork mince. 52-54 Albion Street, Surry Hills; ippudo.com.au/gogyo.

They don’t make particularly authentic ramen at Butter – Sydney’s fried chicken, champagne and sneaker bar – but try telling that to the epic lunchtime line-up. The seasonally-available dish is made up of a rich chicken broth filled with chewy noodles, a marinated soft boiled egg, and here’s the clincher – two of the juiciest fried chicken tenders you ever did eat. They also make some damn fine chilli sauce and many a maverick has been known to add some extra heat to their broth. 6 Hunt Street, Surry Hills; buttersydney.com.au.

This no-frills noodle shop in Chippendale’s Spice Alley is your classic slurp-and-dash ramen joint. For those with poor decision-making skills and a limited lunch break, the super simple menu is made up of just five ramens, so you can try a new one every day of the week. The tonkotsu is refreshingly light, thanks to the addition of vegetables to the bone marrow broth, making a bowl quick and easy work for those with the right technique. Best of all, they’re just ten bucks a bowl. 20 Kensington Street, Chippendale; spicealley.com.au/kyoto.

This inner-city ramen joint is one of the few venues in town that make their own noodles as well as soup. Stir the chewy strands into the rich piggy masterstock or try one of the more unusual offerings, from fish ramen to the tsukemen dipping ramen, served with toppings on the side. Our pick is the spare rib, finished with a flame-grilled pork bone of prehistoric proportions. While you’re noodling over what to order, get a plate of gyoza and to start. 126 Liverpool St, Sydney; yasakaramen.com.au.