Known for its singular dedication to sourcing impeccable produce and delivering it at its optimum – at that immaculate point of hesitation – Japanese cuisine is arguably the most spectacular on the planet when it comes to sophisticated simplicity. Although Tetsuya’s set the benchmark with a contemporary play on Japanese with French influences, there is a new bread putting Japanese cuisine at the top of the food pyramid down under, writes Anthony Huckstep.

Minamishima, Richmond, Melbourne

When I reviewed Minamishima last year I penned that it was only one of two restaurants that have caused me to cry (well, well up) absolute tears of joy. To dine here is to immerse oneself in the gastronomic temple of chef Koichi Minamishima, an oasis of tranquility, tradition, simplicity and respect. It’s about as far from sushi trains as Kenzo is from Best & Less. Book at the counter for the omakase (chefs choice). It’s spectacular. Must eat: Sea urchin; scallop; eel; scampi www.minamishima.com.au

Sokyo, Pyrmont, Sydney

It might be housed in The Star, but the Sokyo is the star in Sydney for Japanese. Dine in the restaurant proper or pull up a pew at the counter for the OMG of omakase. Chef Chase Kojima strikes a fine balance between tradition and innovation with a menu that suits just about any occasion. With a cracking cocktail and sake menu, Sokyo is one of the best nights out in Sin city. Must eat: Toro with blended wasabi; sashimi platter; miso-glazed glacier 51 toothfish with Japanese salsa and pickled cucumber www.star.com.au/sydney-restaurants/signature-fine-dining/sokyo

Izakaya Fujiyama

You had us at ‘house-made Kewpie mayonnaise.’ Izakaya Fujiyama is serving some of the best Aussie take on Japanese in Sydney. The izakaya-style menu spans karaage chicken (served with that house-made mayo), miso-glazed pork belly, sushi and sashimi, and the restaurant delivers all you need for a fun night out, including a strong selection of sake and Japanese whisky. 38-52 Waterloo St, Surry Hills, izakayafujiyama.com

Cho Cho San, Potts Point, Sydney

A modern, contemporary Japanese restaurant, from the team behind The Apollo and Longrain, that sits quite nicely amongst the throng of the new wave of Australian dining. Chef Nic Wong’s killer menu respects the building blocks of Japanese technique but hits a home run within the context of Australia’s dining scene with an unexpected twist. It’s bright, almost Scandinavian fit-out, left-of-centre drinks list and pumping beats provide the perfect canvas for Wong’s playful menu. Must eat: Japanese omelet with curry sauce; grilled king prawns with kombu butter; matcha tiramisu www.chochosan.com.au

Komeyui, Port Melbourne, Melbourne

A bit of an unsung hero – perhaps because it’s a neighbourhood restaurant rather than one in the frenetic heave-ho of the CBD – but the offering here is stellar. The name itself Kome (rice) and yui (knot, binding) referencing the importance of rice which is cooked in a cast iron pot (hagama). A smart, contemporary setting that puts all its emphasis on stunning produce and simple technique. Must eat: The uni (sea urchin) tasting menu if in season; eel hitsumabushi; braised Berkshire pork kakuni; chawanmushi www.komeyui.com.au