In a city where there’s a Guzman y Gomez on what feels like every second street corner, some of them drive-throughs, and a Taco Bell south of the river, it’s clear there’s a big appetite for Mexican cuisine in Brisbane. And yet, until recently, the quality has been erring on the side of fast food. Now, in a partially subterranean spot along Fortitude Valley’s Brunswick Street, a brand-new SoCal-influenced Mexican locale has opened its doors, bringing a refreshing offering in tow.

As you enter the sophisticated yet laid-back space, guests can expect to be greeted by owner Daniel Quinn, who, having refined his hospitality skills in London and Sydney, has set his focus on the front-of-house experience. And, it shows. The service here is welcoming, knowledgable and relaxed. Cacti and succulents line window sills and terracotta-tiled tables act as a canvas for plates filled with fresh, bold and colourful dishes, which are served alongside Alicel’s vibrant cocktails.

In the kitchen at Baja, chef Julio Aguilera has designed a menu that reflects his mother’s Baja heritage and his learnings following time spent working in Oaxaca. During Julio’s time in Mexico, he worked on the pans at El Destilado, where he met Valerie Frei, Baja’s now head chef. The menu opens with botanas, or snacks, including all-important guacamole, served with mint and a citrus-chilli vinaigrette, followed by entradas (entrees) and mains.

The toast of this writer’s table was a close tie between the raw kingfish with habanero coconut milk, chilli oil, cucumber and fried shallots, and the twice-cooked octopus tentacles with citrus, chilli oil and a squid-ink burnt jalapeno soy sauce. The main event sees colourful, enticing tacos arrive at the table – in pairs or trios. If you’ve come with a group, work your way through the selection, from carne asada, to mushroom cooked two ways, onward to al pastor and the Baja fish filling. If space permits, innovative desserts bring the likes of salted milk panna cotta and spiced chocolate mousse to the fore.

Cocktails make use of the national spirits – tequila and mezcal – with a premium selection shipped over from the motherland. Margaritas shake off their party-boy reputation with elegant incarnations, spiked with elderflower, maraschino and aloe vera and served in crystal stemware. Meanwhile, an edited selection of local wines favours organic and biodynamic drops.

Baja is now open at 211, Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane. For more information, visit bajamodernmexican.com and keep your eyes peeled for menu and opening hours updates on the restaurant’s Instagram page. Photography by Judit Losh.