Gumnuts tangled in an eucalyptus wreath turn out to be wattleseed choccies, and that outback “roo-shi” isn’t from Japan. And when things start as slam-the-table-good as the macadamia and smoked eel tofu, you know you’re in serious danger of falling head over heels for Melbourne’s bucketlist diner in the clouds. Wunderchef Hugh Allen is making his mark on a restaurant almost as old as he is, taking your experience to lofty heights beyond Vue’s 55 floors with vision, sophisticated techniques and respect for ingredients – while having a lot of fun in the process. Maybe Vue’s tableside theatrics will have you weak at the knees, with wattleseed damper flung over coals before your eyes and the cheese trolley which rolls out post dinner. Or perhaps that 6000-plus bottle list is your kryptonite, with $49,000 bottles of Romanee-Conti Burgundy, $28,000 bottles of Bordeaux, or 1906 Seppelt tawny port. 55 Rialto Towers, 525 Collins St, Melbourne; vuedemonde.com.au.

Attica’s star chef Ben Shewry has worn many hats recently but does what he does best at his Ripponlea restaurant that started it all. In the still dialled-down and relaxed space, you’ll forget you’re paying an eye-watering $360 for dinner. Shewry’s playful take on bush tucker hasn’t changed either; it’s still approachable, delicious and quirky as ever. But his dish-inspo has. That peppery desert oak wattleseed dahl is inspired by a wholesome staff dinner by Attica’s longest-serving team members, subbing in Indigenous mardanggich (Kakadu plum) spice. That burnt Basque cheesecake, warmed over campfire, enjoyed on a surprise mid-meal excursion, is an ode to those punishing lockdown months. And the roo frites? Oh that’s the France-Soir classic remixed, complete with skewered Skippy-meat, salad, crisp fries and DIY spray bottle of saltbush and vinegar to spritz as you wish. Shewry is the humble, quiet achiever making a lot of noise with his cooking and dinky-di, tongue-in-cheek attitude. Team that with rockstar service, out-of-this-world wines and street cred to boot, and Attica is silver service without the stuffiness. 74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea; attica.com.au.

Minamashima is tricked-up omakase-style dining where you let the chef choose the best seafood across 16 or so courses of nigiri and eye-catching desserts. The Richmond space is minimalistic with paper placemats, light-wood benches and dark walls. Counter seating provides a front-row view of the sushi masters’ melodic moves. Pair the experience with sake, wine, cocktails or whisky from a bumper list. Everything about Minamishima is meticulous – wait staff move effortlessly between guests adjusting settings as courses seamlessly evolve. The nigiri is shaped, torched, brushed with soy or wasabi, and placed into your hand to eat, while cooked courses honour traditional techniques. A showstopping gold-leaf maguro maki (tuna sushi roll) is optional – if you have $100 to spare for four pieces. Indulge in rare ingredients flown in from across Australia and Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market, including a poisonous puffer fish made safe by expert chefs for the fugu chawanmushi (egg custard). End on a high note with a trio of Japanese green tea chocolate squares that evolve from bitter to sweet. 4 Lord St, Richmond; minamashima.com.au.

Caramel made from leftover sourdough scraps. Freeze-dried sheep’s milk soil that looks dry but eats yoghurty. A perfect coral trout fillet that’s actually made like “salami from the sea’’. Nothing at Armadale’s small neighbourhood diner, Amaru, is an afterthought. If anything, executive chef Clinton McIver does the opposite for a meaningful, memorable and marvellously delicious experience for all. Pretty-plated creations seamlessly marry seasonal produce with bush flavours that range across five or seven courses. Things may begin with artichoke three ways – in leaf-shaped cracker form, butter-roasted cubes and a sweet and salty chip. Chill out with a brain-tingling pineapple and melon granita hiding cured scallops and a lemon aspen curd beneath, or a Scrabble-tile-sized soft chew of white chocolate and shiitake mushroom to end. A deliberately different wine list heroes homegrown hits as much as obscure overseas drops, such as South African cinsault or Californian pinot noir by the glass, poured by expert waiters with wine smarts and warm hearts. 1121 High St, Armadale; amarumelbourne.com.au.

Four years after opening in true Melbourne fashion down an unassuming laneway, Khanh Nguyen’s Southeast Asian stalwart still goes strong. Take a journey across Vietnam via Indonesia, Malaysia and outback Australia while tasting Nguyen’s refined four-course menu, packing extra snackage at your choosing. His clever mash-ups include the signature oysters bobbing in curry oil and coconut milk as well as the Indo-classic otak otak remixed as a spanner crab curry pate coated over puffy rice cakes. Flame-kissed hiramasa kingfish tiles come to life in a native celebration of vibrant green apple, river mint and starfruit, while texture is taken to a new level in the winter-warmer koshihikari congee comforted by glossy egg yolk, enoki mushrooms and wild rice puffs. Pretty as an Insta-pic Northern Territory barramundi, lapping in a sweet and sour asam laksa broth, is another flavour-loaded plate, as is that insatiable pandan creaminess of the pav spin-off. Smart service and food without whitewashing or gimmicks. This is how you Sunda. 18 Punch Ln, Melbourne; sunda.com.au.

When you think of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine in Melbourne, Shane Delia’s Maha surely comes to mind. Enter the CBD basement restaurant via Bond St, and discover a sleek, black-and-gold dining room humming with conversation and tingling with aromatic spices. Choose from one of two seasonal set menus, which include an overwhelming number of addons – something a Maha regular wouldn’t bat an eyelid over but may be head-scratchingly confusing for first-timers. The soufra (fill my table) menu is great value and includes a smorgasbord of mezze, larger share plates and sweets – as well as what is arguably Melbourne’s best hummus. The toppings change regularly, but the impossibly creamy chickpea dip is whipped into a smoky cloud and scooped into your mouth with warm za’atar-dusted bread. The lamb shoulder and smoked rice are more substantial dishes, while three desserts flavoured with apple, chocolate and rose pair nicely with Maha’s signature crimson tea blend. As an added bonus, all guests are given a “secret spice” jar as a nod to Delia’s spice journey. 21 Bond St, Melbourne; maharestaurant.com.au.

Take note, steak fans. There’s no better quality wagyu beef sirloin in Melbourne than at Ishizuka. Luring punters to the underground restaurant, which seats just 16 people, the Kagoshima A5 Wagyu is just one of 11 courses you’ll try from head chef Hitoshi Miyazawa’s kaiseki-style, multicourse feast. Find a seat overlooking the open kitchen, where Miyazawa’s intricately marvellous food is prepared and served by chefs and waiters in whisper-quiet unison. What seems like an ocean of seafood packs out the offering, with sashimi sliced before your eyes. You may try marron seafood bisque with crab, followed by an elaborate “autumn forest” of black cod, sanma (mackerel pike), paradise prawn, pumpkin castella and snapper sushi. Perhaps the most pleasing surprise comes in the form of yakimono (charcoal-grilled) barramundi with a spinach-green puree loaded with an elegant mix of zest, spice and sour notes. Tuna nigiri, eel and truffle, and a chestnut, persimmon and quince sorbet rounds out the two-hour dining experience. A small yet comprehensive drinks list allows for wine pairings, as well as cocktails and sake. While the only choice is the eye-wateringly steep degustation, Ishizuka leaves you feeling amazing. Basement level, B01/139 Bourke St, Melbourne; ishizuka.com.au.

Four years after Julian Hills opened his suburban fine diner, it’s still as hard as ever to land a table or ringside seat at the pass. Why? Navi has one of the best-value degustations in town. Each of Hills’ five or eight refined courses are as mind-blowingly good, if not better, than the last, from that first sweet chew of macaron filled with Yarra Valley roe to melt-in-your-mouth lamb prosciutto and heady slow-cooked rabbit wrapped in brassica leaves and teamed with bitey pickled pine mushrooms. His lockdown project “elements of duck’’ is, for lack of a better term, a flavourgasm. Hills uses every part of the bird to create something profoundly delicious, be it cherry-lacquered duck hearts, a punchy XO sauce, parfait cigar or perfectly rendered duck breast with flavoursome flesh and skin that’s cellophane-fine with melty fat. It may be the best you’ll have. The wine list heroes the best on our shores and abroad. Hills’ attempt to alleviate month-long waitlists is slightly helped by Navi Lounge, the new wine bar next door which accepts walk-ins and limited bookings. Navi is not only great for the hip pocket but an anomaly in the worn and weathered hospo industry. Believe the hype. 83b Gamon St, Yarraville; restaurantnavi.com.au.

Move over Noma, a new Nordic restaurant has opened in the CBD with a two Michelin-starred chef at the helm. Set in Olderfleet, the 130-year heritage-listed building on Collins Street, Freyja has been given an oh-so-Scandi update that combines earthy red brick with the warmth of oak timber. Jae Bang, of Norway’s famed Re-Naa restaurant, has paired Australian ingredients with ancient preserving techniques like fermenting, curing, smoking and pickling. Swing by at lunchtime to try the smørrebrød, an open-faced sandwich piled with school prawns and savoy cabbage. 477 Collins St, Melbourne; freyjarestaurant.com.