Step inside Bella Brutta and you’ll find a den of happy noise, a glowing woodfired oven and a roomful of diners ignoring their dates over the blister-edged pizzas crowding the table. The dough here is seriously well-fermented; the toppings seasonal and generous. The clam and hot sauce pizza gets all the buzz, and for good reason, but every other option is just as worthy. Service is speedy, but the experience is worth lingering over, and you’re guaranteed to emerge smelling faintly of smoke, mortadella and happiness. Prefer to eat at home? There’s a dedicated takeaway kitchen just around the corner. 135 King St, Newtown; bellabrutta.com.au

This Southern Sydney newcomer has quickly made a splash with its bold flavours and hip-as-hell Brooklyn aesthetic – think neon signage, killer branding and pizzas that pack a punch. The vodka slice is the crowd favourite: spicy, creamy and ridiculously moreish, but the “Bsp’inara” is also a go-to, riffing on a classic marinara with confit garlic, pecorino and anchovy. Bases are chewy but light, with the perfect amount of ‘leopard spot’ char, and while there are only a handful of seats, the nearby park is dotted with a constant stream of locals perched on benches wielding greasy fingers and big grins. 129 Laycock Rd, Penshurst; bsperia.com

Bondi’s got its fair share of pizza, but few do it with the swagger and polish of this long-running favourite. The woodfired oven turns out chewy, leopard-spotted bases, topped with everything from simple San Marzano tomato and buffalo mozzarella to rich porchetta with salsa verde (you can also order the succulent roast pork by the slab) or wagyu brisket pastrami with three types of cheese. The space is airy and chic, with an attached aperitivo bar for pre- or post-pizza drinks. Expect big flavours, punchy cocktails and the kind of good-time, beachside energy that turns any dinner into an event. The Hub, Boheme, Shop LG 08 & 09, 75/79 Hall St, Bondi Beach; daorazio.com.au

Just a block or two from the sand, this seaside trattoria channels southern Italy in both style and spirit. The pizzas are woodfired, soft-centred and loaded with traditional toppings – no gimmicks, just fresh produce, well-sourced cheese and a dough that’s been allowed to breathe. The menu is broken into Neapolitan classics and the ‘Thank you Aussie’ selection, so you can order a marechiaro and a ham and pineapple without being turfed out. It’s a sit-down kind of place, best enjoyed with a carafe of house wine. If you’re lucky, you’ll score a window seat just in time for golden hour. Shop 1B/4-8 Darley Rd, Manly; devita.net.au

It’s been around since the ’80s, but this stalwart of the Lower North Shore hasn’t lost its groove. The menu blends retro comfort with the occasional fancy flourish: maybe a classic supreme one minute, Indian-inspired tandoori chicken with roast cashews and mint yoghurt the next. The dough is hand-stretched and beautifully chewy, with just enough bite to keep things interesting. There’s no wood fire, no sourdough starter, no scene – just good pizza, warm service and a reliably full dining room. The kind of place where the regulars don’t need a menu and the garlic bread deserves its own fan club. 314 Pacific Hwy, Crows Nest; mariobrothers.com.au

What started as a tiny Surry Hills cult-favourite has evolved into a slick but still soulful spot slinging sourdough pizzas that feel equal parts artisanal and anarchic. The crusts are tangy and full of character, the toppings both classic and wildly inventive – one pie might be loaded with mushrooms and a line-up of cheese, another with roasted corn and jalapeno. The wine list leans natural, the lighting is flattering and perfect for date night, and there’s a rooftop bar for alfresco adventures. It feels like a party thrown by your coolest friend, who just happens to make a killer pizza. 215 Oxford St, Darlinghurst; https://dimitrispizzeria.com/

There are only a few seats and even fewer menu items, but what’s on offer at Westwood might ruin you for all other pizza. The sourdough base, made with single-heritage wheat flour from Gunnedah (no gluten-free options here), is blistered and chewy, the garlic-honey topping combo is the stuff of local legend and the vibe is a cross between Inner West grunge and culinary cult. Everything is made with precision, right down to the house-fermented chilli oil that’s mild but deeply flavourful (with one hell of a kick). Prepare to queue, and prepare to come back soon. Possibly even tomorrow. 245 Australia St, Newtown; westwoodpizza.com.au

Don’t let the suburban strip-mall exterior fool you. Inside this popular diner is booth seating, vintage signage and New York-style swagger. The pies are big, bendy and bursting with character, all silky tomato sauce and blistered pepperoni cups on chewy crusts with perfectly crisp undercarriages. There are a good whack of white-based pizzas on offer, and the line-up features cool takes on classic combos. It’s fun, it’s nostalgic and it’s got just enough edge to feel cool without trying too hard. Weekends get busy, but there’s always someone cracking a joke behind the counter to make you forget the wait. 9 Shaw St, Bexley North; mymotherscousin.com.au

This vegetarian-only spot flips the script on what a pizza needs to be great, and does such a solid job of it that even the most ardent carnivore won’t miss the meat. Think toppings like charred broccolini, San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, confit garlic, fermented chilli and ricotta salata, all stacked on the one pizza. The dough is slow-fermented and full of life, and the ever-changing menu means that no two visits are ever the same. They don’t do delivery, and they don’t do substitutions, but they do crank out some of the best vegetarian pizzas in the city. 2/205 Victoria Rd, Marrickville; pizzamadre.com.au

Part train station thoroughfare, part late-night New York fever dream, this dimly-lit spot inside Central Station knows exactly what it is: a fast, excellent slice joint. Punters flock for the square Detroit-style pizza by the slab, big on chew and flavour, with crispy edges and enough toppings to feel like a proper dinner. Salami with pickled peppers and hot honey is the current MVP, but don’t skip the rotating vegie specials, or try the ‘Rancho Relaxo’, with hot pepperoni and cool ranch. Hitting the Inner West craft beer trail? Oltra has set up its second shop inside Poor Toms distillery. oltra.pizza

Rosso Pomodoro moved from its post in the White Bay area of Balmain onto central Darling Street during Covid lockdowns, which has done little to disrupt its incredible popularity. This is authentic Napoli-style pizza; the bases are thin and slightly charred. “Rosso” has maintained its bold decor – think bright red tomatoes painted on the concrete floor, bright green chairs. The pizza toppings are simple and quality, the ever-popular “Diavola” features tomato, fior di latte, hot salami and capsicum. BYO is $10 a bottle and there’s also a Bondi outpost.360 Darling St, Balmain; rossopomodoro.com.au

Is there anything Merivale can’t do well? Vinnie’s Pizza, one of the food posts within the expansive The Newport on the northern beaches, remains one of the best pizza joints in the city. A thin smear of San Marzano tomatoes is topped with fior di latte, then pulled out of the woodfired oven in mere minutes and topped with wild rocket, San Daniele prosciutto and parmesan. The pizzas are thin, the minute bubbles in the crust slightly charred. It’s chewy, excellent pizza made for alfresco dining surrounded by bushland. 2 Kalinya St, Newport; merivale.com/venues/thenewport.

The flour is stone ground, the tomatoes are San Marzano and the buffalo mozzarella is authentic Italian. DOC is a mark given by various Italian agricultural bodies to oversee local foods, a proud mark of authenticity celebrated by this pizza and mozzarella bar. Produce comes first here – a narrow restaurant dominated by a gorgeous marble bar. The bubbled, charred crust is topped with the likes of wild mushrooms, truffle oil and mozzarella in bianco with grated DOP pecorino. There are no half and half pizzas, “scusi”. 78 Campbell St, Surry Hills; docgroup.net.

The city centre may harbour some of the best pizza around, but further afield is not missing out. In Bardwell Park, Napoli Centro’s massive wood-fired pizza oven takes centre stage. Here the pizzas are puffy and charred, with toppings such as tomato, mozzarella, ricotta and basil. A buffalo pizza is topped with giant torn knots of buffalo mozzarella after the pizza is out of the oven. These are no-fuss pizzas that have the basics right, and locals continue to rave. 10 Hartill-Law Ave, Bardwell Park; napolicentropizzeria.com.au.

In Fairfield West, a small pizzeria has been satisfying locals’ appetites for stellar slices for years, quietly turning out plate after plate of wood-fired pizzas with toppings such as mozzarella, gorgonzola and wagyu bresaola. This is a neighbourhood favourite, where the presence of Nonna is felt and “old-school style” is a good thing. The bases are blistered and charred, the toppings mostly simple – there’s no ham and pineapple and margherita might be the order of the day – with additions such as truffle oil and nduja appearing in a hesitant break from the old-school norm. Shop 3/338 Hamilton Rd, Fairfield West; gigino.com.au.