Not so long ago, Fitzroy was a suburb you’d dare not venture to after dark. These days, once the sun goes down this gritty inner-city suburb is exactly where you want to be for restaurants dishing up some of the best food in town. Words by Lindy Alexander.
The locals are onto a good thing with Añada, a cosy restaurant serving southern Spanish-style dishes. We love the paella-pan bread that’s been on the menu for over ten years, as well as more recent additions such as the rabbit and tarragon cannelloni with mustard greens, amontillado jus. 197 Gertrude Street, http://www.anada.com.au/
You haven’t really been to Fitzroy if you haven’t eaten at Andrew McConnell’s Cutler & Co. Grab a drink at the front, and then move to the back for some serious eating (and spending). If you’re hungry, order the roast suckling pig served with anchovy sauce and slow cooked sugar loaf cabbage. Having a meat-free meal? The mushroom pithivier with salt baked celeriac, aged Comté and herbs is next level. 55/57 Gertrude St, https://www.cutlerandco.com.au/
Vegan food is having its moment in the sun, and no one does it better than rock n’ roll restaurant, Smith & Daughters. Having slayed (well, you know what we mean) vegan Latin-American dishes, chef Shannon Martinez has now turned her sights to Italian cuisine. It’s authentic, delicious fare that has fooled more than one diner, especially the “oxtail” ragu, where the compressed mushrooms and gravy deliver a dish unbelievably close to the real thing. 175 Brunswick St, http://smithanddaughters.com/
Okay, so, the Napier Hotel may not be a usual inclusion in a ‘best of’ list, but hear us out. There’s a crackling fire in the winter months, a shady courtyard for the days when the sun is beating down, and a menu that is both international and comforting. It’s like a pub of old, but this time with oh-so-tasty dishes (try the legendary bogan burger). 210 Napier St, http://thenapierhotel.com/food-drink/
Chewy, puffy pizza with seasonal ingredients? Count us in. Ladro has stolen our pizza hearts, and we absolutely adore their sustainable ethos that sees them recycle all their organic waste. 224 Gertrude St, https://ladro.com.au/gertrude-dinner/
Two vegetarian eateries in one list? We must be in Fitzroy. If Smith & Daughters is your loud, punchy, street food, then Transformer is definitely the grown-up cousin. Refined, sophisticated (with the obligatory cascading greenery), order the saffron, ricotta and parmesan gnocchi with peas, cultured butter, tarragon and lemon thyme. It’s enough to make you consider going veggo. 99 Rose St, http://www.transformerfitzroy.com/
Pull up a stool at a crate, and order big at this casual Thai-inspired eatery. Dishes are best shared – like the Ma Hor (caramelised pork, prawn and peanuts served on sour pineapple) and the Banh Mi crispy soft shell crab with pickled vegetables, herbs and homemade pate. 307 Brunswick St, https://ricepaperscissors.com.au/
You’d never guess that behind the sharp, modern lines of Charcoal Lane is a social enterprise that helps Indigenous, marginalised and disengaged youth with hospitality training. The commitment to Aboriginal Australia continues in the menu – with dishes like chargrilled kangaroo fillet (hot smoked over paperbark, served with warrigal greens and a rosella reduction). 136 Gertrude St, https://www.charcoallane.com.au/
