New York or London gentlemen’s club has been the traditional steakhouse model, with dark timber-panelling and deep-lipstick red leather banquettes to sink into. But, in Australia, that style is as old-fashioned as expense accounts. Steakhouses here are, more often than not, sleek and contemporary. Likewise, menus embrace the best of 1963 in a 2023 way with wine lists designed to flatter the beef, not flatten the patrons. Premium beef’s outstanding flavour happens way before it arrives in the kitchen, but it takes a seasoned chef to take cuts of cow and make them crowdpleasers. Here are five of the best to try in Brisbane.

BOS

Reassuringly plush and within cooee of the river, it’s the sights, sounds and aromas at BÕS that let you know immediately the owners take their beef seriously. In this lavish Alkot Studio-designed space, sparks fly, steaks sizzle, and smoke provide atmosphere. For the absolute in extravagance start with Sturia Oscietra caviar, buckwheat blinis and crème fraiche. Each of the eight steak’s back stories is detailed, and there is market price Bistecca or Tomahawk to share. Red wine jus and mustards are complimentary. And, of course, there are options to add prawns or foie gras. Level 4/480 Queen St, Brisbane City; bosbrisbane.com.au.

The Norman Hotel

Opening in 1889, Brisbane’s oldest steakhouse touts itself as Brisbane’s worst vegetarian restaurant. Although the meat cabinet dominates the entrance, vegetarians need not fear – there is a dedicated vegan menu. Taking the Aussie gastro-pub route rather than a steakhouse, there are oysters every way, an extensive salad list and plenty of non-steak mains.But, it is all about the beef and the Norman sources the best from ten different Australian premium producers. The entry point is Norman’s Grill, but for the enthusiasts, it’s the three cuts of Extreme Beef with famed Wagyu marbling. Go extra sauce. 102 Ipswich Rd, Woolloongabba; normanhotel.com.au.

Walter's Steakhouse

Walter’s creates its very own sense of occasion, making it the perfect restaurant to celebrate your occasion. A canopied entry preludes to a dining room that flirts between classic steakhouse and marvellous Anna Spiro interiors, where service is the mantra.Deep-lipstick red booths? Check. Bow-tied servers? Check. Damn fine martinis and a winning wine list? Check. The spotlight shines brightly on the prima donna and House Specialty – a signature Australian grain-fed, dry-aged, cut in-house porterhouse at market price. Walter’s pays homage to surf and turf with Polanco Grand Reserve Oscietra caviar, and Old Bay seasoned mayo crab cakes or Bay Lobster spaghetti. 219 Alice St, Brisbane City; waltersbrisbane.com.au.

Black Hide

Black Hide is brought to you by the Brisbane fine-dining hall of fame Gambaro family. The menu features world-class Stanbroke Queensland beef – all exclusive to Black Hide and 100% halal certified. This two-time winner of Australia’s Best Steak Restaurant uses a Montague Broiler to create meat magic at the Caxton Street and Treasury locations. The Treasury restaurant is sleek and modern, with a 21st-century nod to the steakhouse genre. With six Angus steaks 3+ marble score or four Wagyu marble score 5+, the a la carte menu stretches to roast split prawns or bone marrow with sourdough extras to enjoy the full spectacle. Level 1, Treasury Casino Building, car William Street and Queen St, Brisbane City; blackhidesteakhouse.com.au.

SK Steak And Oyster

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Restaurant impresario Simon Glottis and Chef Kelvin Andrews confidently call SK a “place for a long lunch and a few too many martinis”. White jacketed staff welcome you into the bright Richards & Spence designed space as a pianist tickles the grand centrepiece’s ivories. Start with oysters naturally served Natural, or with Champagne mignonette. Or one of four seafood cocktails, raw bar classics or something from the designer pasta and risotto list. There’s a separate potato menu with life-changing bug and lobster mash. Yes, the sides are extra. And the wine list splurge-worthy. Save up and go all out for that next very special occasion. The Calile Hotel, G.12/48 James St, Fortitude Valley; sk-so.com.