Those in the know slide open a large black door – marked Rogue in gold lettering – to reveal a clandestine dining space tucked away in an industrial corner of Newstead. Beyond its subtle entrance, the low-lit restaurant presents an evolving degustation affair – alongside adapted dietary multi-course menus – revealing welcome surprises in each of the artfully adorned dishes. Attentive staff are on hand to deliver the goods, opening with a dollop of remarkable whipped, smoked butter served with sourdough baguette, the meal enthralling from its first notes. A quartet of starters may feature a flavoursome black garlic waffle topped with spiced avocado and fish roe, trailed by a yuzu kosho prawn cocktail with edible succulents. To follow, it’s an umami-rich, honey-miso glazed pork belly. Next in line, a potato leek gratin is served with a wild venison striploin. Sweet-toothed diners will appreciate the inclusion of two show-stealing desserts. The first, a refreshing strawberry gum granita with a scoop of matcha and coconut gelato, serves as an intermission palate-cleanser. The finale? A petite but mighty sticky date financier delights with butterscotch foam, candied chocolate, and aniseed-myrtle gelato. 14 Austin St, Newstead; roguebistro.com.au.