Carb master Andreas Papadakis of Tipo 00 fame has turned his sights from pasta to pizza. And we’re so in. Hit the stylish Lygon Street digs for the discernible sourdough tang of impeccably crisp-yet-chewy bases and a roll-call of slightly left-of-centre toppings: think pepperberry jazzing up a classic salami; duck sausage joining forces with kipfler potato and caramelised onion for a rich wintery pie; and ox tongue with endive and pecorino showing there’s life beyond prosciutto. While you’re there, treat yourself to Italian snacks like puffs of gnocchi fritto topped with mortadella and parmesan or oozy cacio e pepe arancini. 335 Lygon St, Brunswick East; figlia.com.au

Anyone heading past Rita’s, a joint perpetually heaving with hip Collingwood types living their best lives, is likely to experience an ‘I need what they’re having’ existential crisis. The Victoria Park Station underpass location and white subway tiles give serious Brooklyn vibes; so do the pizzas, which rock a semolina-crusted dough, giving them a gorgeous chew. Pizza is the main game here, with a 16-strong list plus specials. There’s joy to be found in combos like the surf and turf (a bianco base with prawns and pancetta) but there’s no beating the best garlic and cheese north of the river. 239 Johnston St, Abbotsford; ritasabbotsford.com

Deep in the heart of WeFo (West Footscray) this nigh-on perfect neighbourhood pizza place won’t only have you humming the chorus from The Black Sorrows’ song, it will satiate you to the eyeballs with nigh-on perfect pizza. Our pick from the woodfired oven is the prawn and sorrel, hitting the spot with its smart lemony-sour hit of the underused leafy green. Pimp things up with a side of cod roe dip for the crust, while the kids can order their own mini pizzas. In further good news, they’re happy to do a half-and-half, thereby doubling enjoyment while halving family arguments. 572 Barkly St, West Footscray; harleyandrose.net.au

A proud suburban pizza parlour with a democratic philosophy, Shop 225 welcomes all comers into the club, with its broad menu catering for the dietary considerations of gluten-free, vegan and halal. The first Aussie pizza joint accredited by Coeliac Australia has nailed its GF base via its special mixture of flours – rice, corn, potato and chickpea, thanks for asking – while vegan mozzarella opens up a whole world of oozy plant-free indulgence. Wheat-eating carnivores, meanwhile, should look no further than the soul-warming combination of fior di latte, Italian pork sausage and friarielli (broccoli rabe) to get them through the winter months. 225 Melville Rd, Pascoe Vale South; shop225.com.au

There’s a strong chance Rinaldo Di Stasio will be upset with us calling it ‘posh pizza’, but how else do you describe a pizza topped with garlicky lobster and the lilting curveball of lardo? (It’s also the only pizza on this list over $50, so we rest our case). Hang with the common people at these art-filled Carlton digs and order a classic margherita harnessing the gentle tang of house-made fior di latte, or jazz proceedings up with the finocchiona – Tuscan-style fennel salami treated to a magical sprinkling of fennel pollen. It’s the perfect excuse to dress up for pizza. 224 Faraday St, Carlton; distasio.com.au/carlton

Pietro Barbagallo cemented himself in the city’s pizza-loving affections with the cult-worthy I Carusi, which kicked off the artisanal pizza trend several decades ago. These days, he can be found in much larger digs in an off-Little Italy location, where pizza is just one piece of the Sicilian-style trattoria puzzle but justifies the journey alone. Expect dependable pizza combos such as capricciosa; potato with onion and rosemary; and broccoli with chilli, parmesan and lemon – hell, even Hawaiian dares show its face, with a special shout-out to Golden Circle pineapple. File under ‘a great new chapter for an old Melbourne story’. 50 Grattan St, Carlton; www.kaprica.com.au

headlines for the world’s best margherita in 2014 at the Campionato Mondiale Della Pizza (the Oscars of pizza awards). He followed it up with a string of accolades, including 400 Gradi being named eighth in the 2024 Top 50 World Artisan Pizza Chains list. Go judge the fanaticism behind the trophy cabinet for yourself with a margherita made to Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana specifications: woodfired, sugo made only from San Marzano tomatoes and salt, tipo 00 flour, minimal yeast and a lengthy fermentation. Then we can talk. 400gradi.com.au

“Pizza is sexy” says the A25 tagline (and the neon signage adorning its two shops), and we can’t argue when facing one of pizza master Remo Nicolini’s time-honoured creations made with dough proved for 72 hours so it’s light and easy to digest. Bases inhabit the nexus between pliable and crisp, while top-notch toppings fly a flag for simplicity – look no further than fat ribbons of prosciutto di San Daniele overlaid on the creamy tang of buffalo mozzarella and fior di latte with peppery hit of rocket. They’re accredited by Coeliac Australia too, so gluten dodgers can indulge without worry. a25.com.au

It’s been 23 years since Melbourne collectively lost its mind over the thin, minimalist Roman-style pizzas at this Gertrude Street arriviste. The thrill of the new might have waned – and different, albeit simpatico owners are in charge of the still-smart dining room – but the pizza remains a mighty fine proposition. The ‘badabing’ pizza, a symphony of spicy pork and fennel sausage with herbs, chilli and provolone, is a rusted-on menu fixture; while the diavolo will win the hearts of chilli lovers with its double whammy of ‘nduja and hot salami. Stick around for the tiramisu, scooped straight from the bowl. 224 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; ladro.com.au

With North Carolina-born chef Casey Wall at the helm, it’s little wonder these fancy-pants Carlton digs tip their hat at the Italian-American food scene. The electric oven churns out fat, blistered-crust beauties that take no prisoners, with adventurous toppings like guanciale with sweet corn, jalapenos and pecorino (trust us, it really works); and square pies – a specialty of Detroit – with an addictively cheesy burnt crust and minimalist add-ons (try the OG Grandma Square with sweet tomato sugo, stracciatella cheese and basil). Keep on the US theme by straying onto the pasta menu, where vodka sauce gets the respect it deserves. 421 Rathdowne St, Carlton; capitano.com.au

Back in 2021, 48h Pizza e Gnocchi Bar, which operates from South Yarra and Elsternwick took out the top spot as best pizzeria in the Oceania region as part of the 50 Top Pizza awards. The (not-so) secret of their success is undoubtedly the provenance of ingredients – using Grana Padano cheese, Italian-sourced buffalo mozzarella, and prosciutto di Parma – and the bigger clue being in the name. The 48h referring to the time that should be taken on a pizza dough. All proof that there’s no substitute for time and quality when it comes to great pizza. And of course, there’s also gnocchi. 15 Gordon St, Elsternwick and 373 Malvern Road, South Yarra; 48hour.com.au.

Want the real deal? Head to DOC in Carlton where the Italian accents are authentic and so is the pizza. Order the Pizza Sopressa, with San Marzano tomato, salami, provolone, olives and pesto it’s the perfect taste of Italy in Melbourne. 295 Drummond St, Carlton; https://docgroup.net/

Plant-based pizza is a thing. And it’s a good thing at Red Sparrow in Collingwood. From kooky (think vegan hot dog mac ‘n cheese) to conventional (mozzarella, fior di latte, zucchini, cherry tomato, pesto and pine nuts), the pizzas are fast (we’re talking 90 seconds), hot and absolutely delicious. 406 Smith St, Collingwood; https://www.redsparrowpizza.com/

For a long time, pizza by the slice was reserved for food courts and 3am post-nightclub munchies, but when it’s this good, we all need to get a slice of the action. The slices are crusty and puffy with killer toppings like smoked leg ham, basil, fior di latte and mixed mushrooms. 26 Liverpool St, Melbourne, https://www.spqrpizzeria.com/

We dig the décor (think checkered table cloths and exposed brick walls) but we dig the pizza even more at this funky Collingwood pizza ‘club’. The pizzas are generously topped and the combinations are pretty out there (think braised beef with red wine and marmalade or the pork belly pizza with a dripping base). 9-11 Peel Street, Collingwood; lazerpig.com.au