There are a few incarnations of this incredible homage to the pungent, spicy and fragrant of Thai food, but the original hole-in-the-wall is a country mile ahead of its siblings. Before Long Chim’s recent arrival, it was the first proper foray into real Thai food, unapologetic, on stools and the best bang for buck in town. Must eat: Nam Khao Tod – Crispy rice salad with Thai pork sausages, chilli powder and ground peanuts. 90 Wentworth Ave. Surry Hills Sydney, spiceiam.com

Not only the best Thai cook on the planet, one of the best chefs period. There’s not much to say other than grab some friends, go to Long Chim and get as many dishes as you can muster. No one understands balance and harmony within the throes of a spice smack down like David Thompson. Must eat: chiang mai larp of chicken. Long Chim, Perth: Cnr Barrack St & St Georges Terrace, Perth, longchimperth.com Long Chim, Sydney: 10/14 Martin Pl, Sydney NSW, longchimsydney.com

There are a few venues scattered throughout the city, but all you need to know is Chat Thai is the go-to for Sydney’s chef fraternity – and for good reason. The food is a complete knock out. It’s been around since 1989 by dishing up the sort of food they themselves crave, rather than pandering to western palates. Just go. Must eat: Mhu bhing – grilled pork skewers. Chat Thai, 20 campbell st, Haymarket, NSW, chatthai.com.au

A modern take on the Thai that first rocked the world of Sydney, then took it’s a game to Melbourne. Contemporary swagger and serious cocktails, it has spawned some pretty incredible chefs – Martin Boetz and Louis Tikaram – and continues to deliver next level twists on Thai. Mostly though, it’s just a damn good night out. Must eat: caramelised pork hock, five spice, chilli vinegar. Longrain, Sydney: 85 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, NSW, longrain.com Longrain, Melbourne: 40-44 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, VIC, longrain.com

Ask any Brisbane chef where to eat and they’ll immediately say Longtime for the atmosphere, booze and food. Its got the magic trifecta and delivers fun with a capital F. Head down the obscure hidden alleyway and wrap your laughing gear around some tight Thai cookery with a cocktail on the side. Must eat: Eggnet salad of crispy fried duck, lychee, cashews, bean sprouts and black vinegar dressing. Longtime, 610 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, QLD, longtime.com.au