Yellow wasn’t broken. But in 2016, the owners of the popular Potts Point fine diner tried a risky fix. The restaurant went entirely vegetarian. Its spirit of accommodating all diners extends to vegans – there’s a five and seven-course vegan degustation menu available. Look forward to umami-rich dishes and clever fermentation techniques that dial up the full power of the plants on your plate. 57 MacLeay St, Potts Point NSW 2011 https://www.yellowsydney.com.au/

Paperbark’s chefs are obsessed with two things: native ingredients and mining powerful depth of flavour in vegetables. Think dishes boosted with glossy reductions, lots of smokiness, and interesting nut patés. There’s plenty of tart brightness to balance as well, mostly from the indigenous ingredients. Take the smoky portobello mushroom skewers topped with tiny pearls of tart finger lime, which is a memorable standout. Order a la carte midweek or roll with the eight-course degustation on Fridays and Saturdays. 8/18 Danks St, Waterloo NSW 2017 https://www.paperbarkrestaurant.com/

What’s rare is finding vegan food with a touch of regionality. Vinita Chumsri’s Enmore restaurant nods to her parents’ northern Thai heritage. Dishes aren’t strictly by the book though, like the khao soi curry soup with grilled tempeh and noodles. Another interesting dish to try is the hor mok – a curry with a custard-like texture traditionally served banana leaves, but here it’s served in a hollowed out coconut. 10 Stanmore Rd, Enmore NSW 2042 https://www.facebook.com/LittleTurtleThaiRestaurant/

People recommend Yulli’s a lot, but never really know how. “It’s kind of Middle Eastern-y, a bit Asian?” What they’re trying to say is it’s tasty, fun and shareable vegetarian at a good price point that goes down best with a table of friends and some cold beers. Most of the dishes are vegan, and they even take the trouble to list the vegan wines for you (of which there are many). 417 Crown St, Surry Hills NSW 2010 https://yullis.com.au/

Like Yellow, Gigi’s also took a punt on the meat-free dining scene and was relieved to find more than enough willing takers. In 2015, the much adored Neapolitan pizzeria said arrivederci to mozzarella and went vegan, but it’s still a member of the AVPN (the ‘Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana’). Even without formaggio, there’s plenty of richness found in clever pumpkin creams, dairy free blue “cheeses” and cauliflower purees. 379 King St, Newtown NSW 2042 http://www.gigipizzeria.com.au/

The Marrickville cafe extends into a casual vegetarian night diner on Thursdays and Fridays, serving a fluid menu of housemade pastas with unusual veggies, focaccia and simple salads. The vegan dishes are just as thoughtful and delicious as everything else, too. Best to book ahead. 122 Chapel St, Marrickville NSW 2204 http://twochaps.com.au/

It’s hard to maintain eye contact with a dining partner at Nourishing Quarter. Honestly, there’s just a lot of weird stuff to look at. Rain-swollen old books, bric-a-brac, framed family portraits (of whose family, we’re not sure). The menu descriptions are long and abstract, with dish names like “Layers of Nourishment”. Vietnamese-influenced, delicate and fresh, this is healthy and genuinely interesting fare that is an odd delight every time. 315 Cleveland St, Redfern NSW 2016 https://www.nourishingquarter.com.au/

This loved Paddington wine bar and Italian diner isn’t by any means a vegan or vegetarian restaurant. But if you ask to go animal-free, the chefs will easily adapt the dishes with no fuss and likely whip up an entirely off-menu pasta for you too. Take a seat at the bar and watch the kitchen or settle into the cosy dining space upstairs. 10 William St, Paddington NSW 2021 http://10williamst.com.au/

Talk about dining with a view. You can’t do much better than along the wharf in Woolloomoolloo on a warm day, Aperol Spritz in hand. The modern Italian restaurant offers a vegan degustation that makes use of seasonal produce and vegan cheeses. 8/6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo NSW 2011 https://ottoristorante.com.au/