When George Calombaris was in Los Angeles earlier this year, he did what any in-the-know Australian would do.

He stopped by E.P. & L.P., the West Hollywood hotspot operated by expat entrepreneurs Grant Smillie and David Combes and, until recently, helmed by star chef Louis Tikaram. delicious. was there to capture the ensuing feast, a synthesis of Mediterranean and Asian flavours, that unfolded on the rooftop of this photogenic eatery.

For the past four years, the former Longrain chef has captivated Angelenos with his signature pan-Asian cooking, a pristine blend of Chinese, Vietnamese and Fijian influences that he honed in Sydney. A few months after our photo shoot, Tikaram announced his departure from the restaurant, which imbued our story with the air of a farewell party as he plans his move back to Australia.

“Moving to the US to open a restaurant has been a dream come true,” says Tikaram. “But I want to take some time to help my wife Jorja with the baby we are expecting in July.” He admits parenthood (they have another daughter, Maelle) has impacted at-home entertaining. “Now it is usually a daytime barbecue while the kids play,” he says. An adults-only affair might be catered with a Fijian curry with roti.

As for collaborating with Calombaris, who contributed dishes, including his popular lamb souva, Tikaram was duly impressed. “We got along so well in the kitchen and it showed we have the same passion for top produce and big flavours.” Tikaram, too, dreams about preparing Greek and Middle Eastern food, but he has seldom found the time. Maybe Fijian-Greek fusion is the next big thing.

Set the scene

Style
E.P. & L.P. has Instagram-ready interiors, with countless beautiful people to match, but at home, Tikaram is inclined to pull out his favourite “plates and serving bowls from Robert Gordon. I keep it simple.” Not that there will be much room on the table for anything other than food.

Menu
When friends visit Tikaram, “I will be hounded with requests for either E.P. dishes or my grandma’s Fijian chicken curry,” he says. Fatherhood has inspired him to explore “organic healthy eating options” and he has been devoted to shopping at LA’s farmers’ markets. Luckily, we have so many for him to return to.

Playlist
“I still have our wedding playlists on Apple Music from many years ago, so I like to play them sometimes and lots of classic rock,” he says, listing Dire Straits, Eric Clapton and Van Morrison. “Now I’m a dad I am allowed to embrace ‘dad rock’.”

Drinks
“My favourite drink to offer guests is a Campari spritz,” Tikaram says. “A splash of Campari, a few ice cubes, an orange slice and then topped up with prosecco. Simple, refreshing and delicious.”