A finalist in our Produce Awards, Pecora Dairy single origin cheeses are rightfully gaining the attention of our top chefs, says Anthony Huckstep.
I’ve always been an amateur at sleeping. All too often the kernels of tomorrow’s ‘what ifs’ pop around my head delaying deep sleep. However, once under, it requires a car jack and wafts of frying bacon to lever this slovenly beast from slumber.
As a child there was one thing that had me leaping out of bed – the screech of the milk truck coming to a halt and milk bottles clanking en route to the front porch. I’d race my sister, Milly, tripping her if need be, for rst dibs of the prized creamy full fat milk in the bottleneck beneath the silver foil lid.
Today, I’m standing in the milking shed of cheese producer Pecora Dairy, owned by Cressida and Michael McNamara, when Michael hands me a glass of ewe’s milk fresh from an East Friesian’s udder. The milk is body warm, thin yet
velvety, and with a wonderfully natural, round sweetness. It’s extraordinary. The context, and indeed animal, is different, but it triggers memories of that rotund rascal in his PJs way back when.
“Why East Friesians?” I ask.“East Friesians are the Jersey cows of the sheep world,” says Michael. “Jersey’s are designed to put their energy into milk rather than fat or muscle.” They’re also suited to the lush pastures and wet climate in the Southern Highlands town of Robertson (around 1.5 metres of rain per year).
The sheep feed on rich dairy pastures including native species. Three natural spring-fed creeks run through the biodiverse 230-acre property, quenching the ock’s thirst.
They’re milked at 3:30pm daily (each producing a litre of milk) with a purpose-built machine that lets eight sheep stand eating in stalls as Michael and Cressida interchange six milking machines every few minutes. “Sometimes it feels like we’re staring at bums all day,” laughs Michael.
We’re standing in the waiting bay when Cressida arrives with around 100 ewes and a few baby lambs, which have been grazing up the mountain. “Do you have a special call to get them to come for milking time?” I ask. “Absolutely,” she replies bracing herself before hollering – “Come on!” The sheep turn their heads and a chorus of bleating ensues.
Pecora is one of the very few ‘full circle’ cheese producers in Australia. They grow the feed, raise the sheep, milk them and make the cheese. Everything happens on the property. This is the ultimate single-origin producer.
As Michael releases the sheep after milking, Cressida races up the top to re ll feeder trays. Michael grabs the gate to let the next lot in. They race along the deck, a gate closes behind each sheep and a new feeder box opens.
Cressida then runs down to the ‘bum’ end with Michael, and the milkers are attached to teats again. It’s like a hybrid version of Hungry Hungry Hippos and Mouse Trap. But this is no game.
They have to master the art of farming before they even consider making cheese. It’s an incredibly complex process because the lactation uctuates so much throughout the year. As such, the cheese is much more variable, but like wine, more representative of a season, the animal’s cycle and the pastures.
Sheep lamb in late July and the milk is really sweet and clean. In summer it’s thinner and funky. Approaching lambing time again the solids increase in the milk, making a creamier texture.
Pecora make a few ‘everyday’ styles for the markets (Carriageworks, Pyrmont and Northside Produce markets in Sydney, and Kiama Farmers’ Market), including curd, feta and yoghurt. But the focus is on mastering three signature cheeses.
The ‘Bloomy White’ is a dense, gooey mould-ripened fresh curd with wrinkly delicate skin; ‘Jamberoo Mountain Blue’ is mild, creamy with earthy spice and hints of honeysuckle; while ‘Mezza’ is grassy and nutty, inspired by Basque-style semi hard cheeses. All showcase the natural sweetness and versatility of ewe’s milk.
They’re stunning, masterful cheeses that are a testament to supreme dedication. No wonder they’re starring on menus at the likes of Biota, Quay and Icebergs Dining Room.
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