Food Files

Why Japanese sushi restaurants don’t want you wearing perfume 

Sokyo Brisbane
Sashimi by Sokyo Brisbane.
Credit: Supplied

Think of it as an extension of the dress code.

When it comes to dining out, etiquette demands that we put in some effort – a nice ‘fit, your best sneakers and doing something with your hair. It’s an occasion and dressing the part is part of it.

But in Japan, an unspoken part of the dress code is no perfume. Scent and taste are closely linked and a cultural culinary belief is that it interferes with the meal.

When London’s one-Michelin starred Sushi Kanesaka asked diners to avoid strong scents, it made headlines. At Amsterdam’s Toscanini, a confirmation email includes this request: “We would like all our guests to have a great experience, but sometimes this is hindered by excessive perfume use. Therefore, we kindly ask you to consider this by using perfume more subtly”. And sommeliers don’t wear perfume or cologne, because it can override a wine’s bouquet.

Sake chef Shimpei Hatanaka.
Sake’s Shimpei Hatanaka.
Credit: Supplied

Sake executive chef Shimpei Hatanaka believes it makes sense to leave your scent at home. “I was taught that when you eat, you start by listening, then looking, then smelling, touching and finally tasting. If your nose is blocked, like when you’re sick, you can’t taste properly,” he says.

“A good example is miso soup or a clear soup served with a lid. When you lift the lid, the aroma of the dashi hits you first – and that moment is part of the whole experience. It sets you up for the first sip. It’s small, but it matters.

“Just like with wine, scent is a huge part of tasting food. Chefs are trained not to wear perfume, not to smoke and even avoid strong things like coffee – even on their days off – because it can dull the palate. The same goes for guests. You can’t fully taste something if there’s a strong smell getting in the way.”

Related story: Why is it so hard to get a restaurant booking in Japan?

Assorted Sushi at Sokyo Brisbane
Assorted sushi at Sokyo Brisbane.
Credit: Supplied

Sokyo Brisbane executive chef Alex Yu says it’s not just sushi restaurants in Japan that frown on diners wearing perfume. “Japan has many traditions and this goes for their dining experiences too. Traditionally, every dining experience must be harmonious, not just for the individual, but as a group eating in harmony together. If there are a number of scents in the room, this affects the dining experience for all guests.” Yu says.

“High-end sushi and Japanese restaurants pride themselves on offering a multi-sensory experience where guests will eat with their eyes first, followed by smell second. If there are unwanted aromas in the room, this can interfere with a guest’s experience.

“In Japan, it is a common rule if you’re visiting a Michelin stared or high-end sushi restaurant, to not wear scent.”

Saké Restaurant & Bar
A Saké spread.
Credit: Supplied

While scent can impact a diner’s meal, it can also have a negative effect on the chef across the sushi counter or a guest at the next table. “Chefs are constantly tasting and smelling while they work – the nose is like a second palate. If someone walks in with a strong perfume, smoke, or even body odour, it can throw everything off,” Hatanaka says.

“It’s also unfair on other guests who are there to enjoy the experience. In Japan, if your scent is too strong, the restaurant might even turn you away.” He believes that it’s reasonable for restaurants to ask guests not to wear strong scents. “Smells matter when you’re dining. It’s all part of creating the right environment,” Hatanaka says.

“It’s part of etiquette, like any other rule in a dining room. Some places ask guests to keep their phones on silent, not take flash photos or step outside to make a call. This is the same idea. If a restaurant has a dress code, or scent policy, it’s usually made clear at the time of booking.”

Related story: Here are the must-try convenience store foods in Japan

Alex Yu, Executive Chef at Sokyo Brisbane
Alex Yu, Executive Chef at Sokyo Brisbane.
Credit: Supplied

Should you wear perfume to a restaurant in Australia?

Yu doesn’t see a scent policy taking off locally. “Whilst it is common practice in Japan to not wear a scent out of respect to the dining experience, Australian restaurants are more flexible, so I don’t see restaurants enforcing these types of rules,” he says.

““We all eat with our eyes first, smell second and taste last. If one of the first two experiences are interrupted, it will affect the final component. For the best experience, chefs can always recommend avoiding any aromas or scents, especially for a sushi counter or omakase experience. Some diners may be comfortable with the directive, as it will enhance their overall multi-sensory experience, however, there also may be diners who may not follow a chef’s recommendation.”

Related story: The 8 things you should never do in Japan if you want to be a respectful tourist

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