Left your festive shop to the last minute? Carriageworks Farmers Markets is about to throw its largest annual event, ideal for last-minute gifting and stocking up on gourmet supplies.
Passing through Redfern on any given Saturday, it’s possible to follow a trail of locals clutching overflowing tote bags and well-dressed couples with well-dressed hounds straight to Carriageworks Farmers Market. The last market of the year before Christmas is always the biggest, with 120 stallholders setting up for extended trading hours on December 21.
Credit: Jacquie ManningKitchen By Mike chef Mike McEnearney is a walking manual for the market, having been its creative director for nearly a decade. He suggests coming armed with a shopping list.
“A visit to the Rock Oyster Depot is a great start,” he says. “It’s hard to beat a Sydney rock oyster on Christmas Day.”
Daniel May of Rock Oyster Depot is excited to debut a collaboration between two of NSW’s best producers: Tathra Oysters and Wheeler’s Oysters. The oysters grow from seed in Tathra’s Nelson Lagoon before spending two years in Merimbula Lake under the Wheelers’ care.
“The result is an interesting oyster,” May says. “It has complex flavours that we’re used to from Tathra – green herbs and minerality – but also has the plump, creaminess that results from having abundant food in a place like Merimbula Lake.” He recommends serving these au naturel, “so you can appreciate where the oyster was grown,” but adds: “After you’ve ‘got the point’, a splash of mignonette or Tabasco would be a treat!”
Another collaboration is between regular stallholders Anthony Silvio of Vannella Cheese and Chocolate Artisan’s Jessica Pedemont.
“Making fresh mozzarella means we end up with a lot of whey by-product,” Silvio says. “Normally we repurpose this by recooking it into ricotta, but for Christmas, we’ve reduced it down into a decadent, fudgy salted caramel. Jessica has taken this and filled it into a dark chocolate bar, which she produces from scratch using organic sustainably sourced cacao.”
On Pedemont’s stall, the Christmas Pudding Cake is a bestseller. “It’s a staple we’ve made for years,” she says. Her pud includes produce from several market favourites, including Olsson’s Sea Salt, Kootingal Pecan Company, Hilltops Free Range and Pepe Saya.
For a simple but sophisticated spread, a wheel of Pepe Saya butter is a requisite for McEnearney, smeared on artisan bread (if the A.P Bakery line defeats you, many talented bakers frequent the market).
“For gluten-free options, visit Nonie’s,” McEnearney adds. “They have plenty, like a super-moist Christmas cake and fantastic breads. A Boxing Day weakness of mine is a toastie made with Nonie’s seedy brown filled with Christmas leftovers.”
To drink? “Look for sparkling Lambrusco pét nat from Aristotelis Ke Anthoula, and Stuart Olsen’s Eloquesta Reserve Sparkling,” McEnearney says. Demoiselle limoncello is another favourite; while Demoiselle’s head distiller Darran Baker recommends their Christmas Gin and Vivipara agave spirit, made from agave they grow on their farm.
For the main event, McEnearney suggests asking the experts. “Visit The Gourmet Potato and chat with Wentworth and Annette about how you want to prepare them. They’ll guide you through varieties which work best.”
It’s one of the peak periods for seasonal produce at the markets, which focus on small NSW producers.
“For me, cherries scream Christmas… so poke your head in to Drive In Orchards for a box,” McEnearney says. “And make sure you visit Chocolate Artisan for a jar of Merry Cherries to serve with ham.”
The Carriageworks Christmas Markets runs from 8am to 3pm, Saturday 21 December, 245 Wilson Street, Eveleigh.
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