While he’s been experimenting with the likes of crocodile skin, ginger flowers, green macadamias, fermented kangaroo, muntries, abalone, quandong syrup and strawberry clams, Copenhagen chef Rene Redzepi has created his own version of Vegemite, inspired by the rich, umami and often polarising flavours of Australia’s notorious ‘black gold’.

The chef is currently in Australia heading up Noma Australia, a 10 week pop up in Sydney’s Barangaroo that sold out in minutes.

“I found Vegemite interesting, not very tasty, when I first tried it,” admits the chef over a flat white before lunch service (despite the dreary Sydney day, he’s wearing green thongs, another Aussie ingredient he’s adopting while living Down Under). “It’s a very peculiar flavour, and that’s the thing when you tap into a culture, you almost have to be local to get it. You have to have grown up with it. All cultures have it, and yours is Vegemite.”

I ask Redzepi for his recipe for Noma-mite, not because I intend to make a batch at home – “It’s actually a pain in the arse to make, go ahead and try!” he challenges – but in the hope that the Michelin-starred chef can shed some light what exactly is Vegemite.

“My version uses fresh brewer’s yeast and a mixture of organic vegetables that we’ve cooked and reduced down to a dark caramel, then added to the yeast. It’s very rich.”

“Rene’s version is bright, clean and sharp, which is good,” says food critic Matt Preston, who drizzles the glistening, oil-like syrup over a piece of avocado toast before handing it to the Danish chef.

“Now the flavours start to shine!” says Redzepi. “Vegemite has this umami richness. I see it as a vector for cooking, as a stepping stone to make good flavours. I see it to be used for so many other applications than on toast. Vegemite should be the Australian version of miso. It should be in all food.”

The Noma-effect of truly eating local has whipped chefs here and abroad into a frenzy of foraging and growing-their-own, however Redzepi riffing on Vegemite is the most down-to-earth iteration of this philosophy, no bush spices necessary.

“We chose to explore the Vegemite option, because if there is one thing that all Australians have so dear to their heart, it really is Vegemite.”

Amen.

* Jars of Noma-mite not actually for sale. So actually, they’re priceless.