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The one crab you should be ordering this season

Grilled spanner crab (red frog crab)

Anthony Huckstep shimmies to Mooloolaba on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast and finds that Fraser Isle Spanner Crab has all the moves.

Personal information about my dancing skills were leaked to a celebrated chef recently and he’s been holding me to ransom ever since. So, I’ve decided to come clean. As avid readers might know, I lay claim to possessing a heavy metal heart, but there was a time when I stole hearts as a breakdancer. That’s right. I’d pop and lock, duck and dive, caterpillar and moonwalk, but as the said chef was informed, if I bust a move nowadays it’s during the small hours and usually without clothing.

These days, with my top-heavy dad bod I’m more likely to pop a hip than pop and lock. And while my duck and dive may be more belly splat, and my caterpillar like someone salted a slug, I can say M. Jackson’s moonwalk has nothing on the AC Hucksteper.

Anyway, not long after I land on the wharf in Mooloolaba in the Sunshine State to meet Fraser Isle Spanner Crab’s chief seafood spruiker Jason Simpson, he reveals this incredible crab is quite the expert moonwalker, too. “They could out-moonwalk anything in the sea, mate,” he laughs. In fact, it’s one of the few crabs on earth that can walk backwards and forwards – rather than sideways. The bright orange-red crustacean looks like the offspring of a lobster, tarantula and body builder. Add devil horns and ferocious looking claws and there’s simply nothing quite like it.

The Sunshine Coast is the heart of spanner crab country – though they’re found all the way from northern NSW to 700km up the east coast. “Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island,” says Simpson. “And sand is the most important thing for a spanner crab.”

A predator, rare for crabs, which mostly scavenge, that lives in depths of water from 20-100m, spanner crabs use their hind legs to bury themselves backwards into the sand. With just their eyes protruding, they lay in wait to ambush their prey.

“He only comes up for food, to fight or to mate,” he says. Who knew I had so much in common with a spanner crab? The claws are a top-of-the-line scallop shucking implement.

Thin enough to get between the shells and snip the adductor mussel, but strong enough to dissect a prawn, too. This luxurious diet results in the softest and sweetest crab flesh on the planet.

The Queensland Spanner Crab Fishery is a single target fishery that was among the first to be certified sustainable under the Commonwealth Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999. Now, it’s the only spanner crab fishery that consistently and sustainably supplies large crabs to market.

Fraser Isle Spanner Crab, owned by Les and Lyn Apps, is a single-fisherman fleet that heads out in a small boat around 2am and sets up as the sun rises. In peak season the skipper will bring a deck hand, but mostly it’s small catch. Fishermen lay gauzed metal trays – known as dillies – connected by a long line, at 30m intervals on the sea floor with a bait bag attached. The crab seeks out the bait and jumps on the dilly. If they get spooked their gut reaction is to bury themselves. As a result, their back legs get caught in the mesh, which holds the crab until the fisherman pull them up an hour later. Some crabs jump on the trap, have a bite and move on. It’s only the ones that try to bury themselves that get caught.

“They get a fighting chance that’s for sure,” says Simpson. A good haul would be half a dozen crabs on a dilly.

The fishery quota is about 1500 tonnes, but the entire shery only harvests around 1000 tonnes per year – Fraser Isle Spanner Crab with 300-500 tonnes of that. The crabs can grow up to 1kg in 8 years, but the average crab is 500g. In Australia, it’s illegal to harvest a crab under 300g or females with eggs under their abdomen. But Fraser Isle have a policy to never harvest females to ensure sustainability.

Spanner crabs have about a 25 per cent meat-to-shell ratio with the majority of meat in the body under the carapace. The company picks and vacuum-packs raw and steamed crab meat for market, but the real deal is picking it yourself, says Simpson.

“Grab two dinner plates. Take the shell off the cooked crab and place the body between the two plates,” he says. “Push down on the top plate until you hear a crunch. Then split it like a peach and the meat will be easy to pick.”

“Oh, Hucks, most importantly, you want to take your time and have it with a beer. It’s one of the greatest cultural experiences you’ll ever have,” he laughs.

Two weeks later, we tried that move at home. Two plates, three spanner crabs and a six pack of Resch’s – almost as good as dancing in the nude. No, even better.

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