Ask some of the best chefs in the country and they’ll tell you Tim Malfroy’s Wild Honey is pure gold. Overcoming recent challenges, the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards winner looks forward to rebuilding a sweet future.
When people think of Aussie farmers affected by drought and bushfires, they rarely think of apiarists. However, beekeepers have been just as badly stung by recent events as any other producer. “From droughts to dust storms, bushfires and floods, I can’t lie – it’s been an incredibly challenging year,” says apiarist and Produce Awards gold medallist Tim Malfroy.
A strong advocate for natural beekeeping, Malfroy keeps his colonies in salvaged timber hives in remote pockets of wilderness in the Blue Mountains and Central West regions of New South Wales. His bees live, breed and build their comb naturally, mimicking the comings and goings of a wild bee colony. This intrinsic relationship with Mother Nature makes them particularly vulnerable to environmental stress. “After a number of years of persistently dry conditions, last summer crippled the local environment,” says Malfroy. “Entire ancient woodlands died from extreme lack of water.
We lost colonies in the January heatwave in the Hawkesbury area and more in the record-breaking floods in the same area in February.” Then, the bushfires came.
“The main fire we were dealing with, the Gospers Mountain Fire, burnt through more than 500,000 hectares of wilderness and became the largest fire recorded in Australia. We were scrambling for three full months to save, protect and relocate apiaries, working closely with our friends in the Rural Fire Service and property owners to formulate the best plan of attack. I’m proud to say we saved most of our colonies.” So little foliage remained that Malfroy was forced to shift many of his apiaries to new areas.
While the bushland may be showing signs of regeneration, bee colonies are not expected to recover for many years to come. “The eucalypts, which are a key food source for bees, will take 15 years or more to flower again.”
The onset of Covid-19 has also presented its own unique set of challenges. A dramatic drop in tourism in the Blue Mountains – where Malfroy produces and sells much of his honey – as well as the closure of many cafes and restaurants, has halted the flow of honey sales.
Just like his bees, Malfroy has kept himself busy these past few months rebuilding his colonies for a new season ahead. “Right now, we’re getting ready for bee season, so we’re pressing combs, bottling honey, melting wax and making beehives. We’re also developing some new products.”
Alongside his renowned Post Brood Polyflora Wild Honey, which is a favourite with top chefs such as Peter Gilmore and Lennox Hastie, Malfroy has launched a wild honeycomb on the frame. “Most honeycomb is produced on artificial wax
– a thick midrib of wax increases yield but gives the comb an unpleasant waxy texture and flavour. Our wild honeycomb is produced entirely by the bees, has amazing body with intense floral aroma and a delicate texture.” The honeycomb makes a perfect addition to cheese platters or desserts, and can be gently crushed over yoghurt or spread on hot buttered toast.
Malfroy is yet to taste the honey from last season, which will be as sweet and luscious as ever, with only subtle floral hints as to what has taken place. “The floral make-up will be a representation of the ‘first responders’ to the fire – grass trees and wildflowers.” Essentially, a perfect distillation of the year that was.
“The incredible diversity of produce in Australia is a testament to the craft of our farmers. Buy local produce as much as you can – it’s second to none,” says Gerry Harvey.
For a full list of how to support award-winning producers in your state, head here.
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