When talking cheese, “halloumi” and “haloumi” might sound the same, but they’re very different beasts. The difference that one little “L” can make tells you a lot about where the cheese comes from and how it’s made.

Halloumi, spelled with two Ls, is the traditional version from Cyprus, the tiny nation island off the coast of Greece. This cheese is made from a mix of goat’s and sheep’s milk, though sometimes cow’s milk is used too. The production process is tightly regulated, and authentic halloumi often has a DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) status. 

For Riverside Farm producer and Harvey Norman delicious. Produce Awards alumni Ellen Chatterton, comparing the two cheeses is like comparing apples and oranges. 

“The main difference between halloumi in Cyprus and Australia is the milk used, in Australia most producers use cow’s milk only (or a significant percentage is cow’s milk) whereas in Cyprus it is only sheep and goat milk. 

Related story: The best cheese subscription boxes to send to yourself

“This completely changes the texture and cooking of the cheese, halloumi made with cow’s milk is creamier and doesn’t hold its shape when fried.”

To make authentic halloumi, milk is curdled with rennet, then pressed and cooked. After that, it’s brined to preserve it and imbue a deep salinity. This method makes the cheese firm and ideal for grilling or frying.

Haloumi, with one L, can be made anywhere, not just in Cyprus. It’s often produced on a larger scale and might be made from cow’s milk alone or different milk blends. These versions don’t have to adhere to traditional methods. 

Chatterton, a veteran in the sheep-raising business believes that the lack of regulation means that a lot gets lost in translation. “As a cheese maker, I think the traditional Cypriot halloumi is a much nicer flavoured cheese and cooks better. Unfortunately in Australia, only large mass-production cheese companies make haloumi which looks the same but has little flavour and does not cook as it’s supposed to.”

To get a taste of what’s happening at Riverside Farm, head to the website here.

So what should you be looking for in a quality halloumi?

Look at the ingredients on the pack. Even if it’s not from Cyprus, try to find one made with both sheep and goat’s milk. The goat’s milk adds a bright freshness, while the sheep’s milk allows for a crisp, golden crust to form. Perfect for dishes like saganaki or rich tomato bakes.

Keep across everything going on at the 2024 Harvey Norman delicious. Produce Awards here.

Related story: Missing Holy Goat cheese? You’ll want to try Tongola