Helen Goh’s hojicha burnt Basque cheesecake
“Every so often I find myself dwelling on a deeply existential question, like, does the world really need another recipe for Basque cheesecake? My answer was a firm no until my friend and recipe tester, Clare, a confirmed ‘shinnichika’ (Japanophile) who travels to Japan frequently, introduced me to hojicha. This is a type of Japanese green tea that is roasted over charcoal. I was bowled over by its subtle, nutty, smoky flavour with hints of caramel, coffee and chocolate, and I immediately thought of pairing it with Basque cheesecake. Would it work as I imagined? If it did, the cake might just be distinctive and delicious enough to make it worth adding to all the recipes already out there. Since you’re reading this, you’ve probably already worked out that it did. The hojicha imparts a warm, toasty flavour and highlights the caramel tones of the cheesecake without interfering with its rich and creamy taste. I have added a little cocoa powder to bring out the coffee and chocolate notes in the hojicha, which also pleasingly deepens the colour.” – Helen Goh.
You’ll need a high-sided 20cm round cake pan (preferably with a removable base).
This is an edited extract from Baking and the Meaning of Life by Helen Goh (Murdoch Books RRP $55.00). Photography by Laura Edwards.
Ingredients (8)
- 15g hojicha powder (from Asian grocers and tea specialists; see recipe notes)
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 300ml thickened cream, at room temperature
- 600g cream cheese, at room temperature
- 200g caster sugar
- 1 3/4 tbs (20g) plain flour
- 3 tsp (10g) dark cocoa powder
- 4 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten
Method
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1.Preheat oven to 220°C/200°C fan-forced. Press 2 large sheets (about 40cm) of baking paper in a cross-like formation into a high-sided 20cm round cake pan (preferably with a removable base). There will be a generous overhang – this is as it should be.
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2.Place the hojicha powder in a medium bowl. Add the vanilla, then slowly whisk in the cream by hand until it is smooth and combined. Be careful not to whisk too vigorously; you want the mixture to be lump-free but not to thicken too much. Set it aside for now.
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3.In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, sugar and ¼ tsp fine salt on medium-low speed for about 2 minutes, until smooth and creamy. Sift the flour and cocoa into the bowl and mix on low speed just to combine. Add the lightly beaten eggs, about one-quarter at a time, and beat on medium speed, scraping down the base and sides of the bowl regularly until the eggs are fully incorporated. Finally, add the hojicha cream mixture and beat on low until combined.
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4.Pour the batter through a fine-mesh sieve into the prepared pan. Gently tap the pan a few times on the countertop to remove any air bubbles, then bake on the middle rack of the oven for 45 minutes, or until slightly puffed up and golden brown, but still a little wobbly in the centre. Remove the cake from the oven and cool in the pan on a wire rack for 2-3 hours, until it is at room temperature.
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5.The cheesecake can be eaten at room temperature or cold (see recipe notes). Either way, cut it with a hot knife (dipped in hot water, then wiped dry with a tea towel) for lovely clean slices.
Recipe Notes
If you can’t find hojicha powder, buy hojicha leaves and whiz in a spice blender until a fine powder.
Serve the cheesecake at room temperature or refrigerate and serve cold. It will be slightly denser when chilled, but no less delicious.
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