Italian ricotta-filled doughnuts (Iris)
"Per la cronaca (for the record), these are pronounced ‘EEreese’, whether you order one or several, which you will want to do once you try them. The big difference between iris and, say, bomboloni, or mainland Italian doughnuts, is that iris get a coating of breadcrumbs before they’re fried (or before they’re baked, because iris take kindly to that, too). The breadcrumbs give a whole bonus layer of pleasure to eating them: the crunchy contrast to the warm, pillowy dough giving way to the creamy centre.
"Iris were first made for the premiere, in 1901, of Pietro Mascagni’s lyric opera Iris. Palermo pastry chef Antonio Lo Verso was so taken with the work that he created these in its honour. I’ve given instructions for both baking and frying, but I think iris are at their best when fried. (Isn’t everything?)" - Victoria Granof
Recipe note: Begin this recipe at least 3 hours ahead.
This recipe is an edited extract from Sicily, My Sweet by Victoria Granof, published by Hardie Grant Books, AUD$49.99. Available now.
Ingredients (12)
- 1/2 cup (125ml) milk, at body temperature (neither hot nor cold to the touch
- 1/4 cup (55g) white sugar
- 2 tsp active dry yeast
- 250g tipo 0 (Manitoba) flour (from specialty grocers) or strong (baker’s) flour
- 60g unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1 1/2 cups (150g) fine dried breadcrumbs
- Canola, sunflower or other neutral oil, to deep-fry (optional), plus extra, to grease
- 1/4 cup (30g) icing sugar, to dust
Filling
- 230g fresh ricotta
- 1/3 cup (75g) white sugar
- 1/2 tsp fiori di Sicilia (see recipe, top left), or 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 11/2 tbs chopped chocolate or choc chips
Don't forget you can add these ingredients to your Woolworths shopping list.
CloseMethod
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1.Before you start making the dough, line a strainer with a paper coffee filter, paper towels or cheesecloth. Put the ricotta for the filling in the strainer over a bowl and refrigerate while you make the dough.
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2.To make the dough, in a small bowl, stir together the milk, white sugar and yeast. Set aside until the mixture begins to get foamy, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and, with a wooden spoon, stir in the flour, butter and 1/2 tsp fine salt until the dough comes together in a ball.
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3.Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board and knead it for a good 8-10 minutes, until smooth. Wash out bowl, dry it and rub with a bit of extra oil. Put the dough back in and turn it over so the surface is coated with oil. Cover bowl and let the dough rise until it’s doubled in size, about 2 hours at room temperature, or overnight in the fridge.
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4.Meanwhile, make the filling. In a small bowl, mix drained ricotta, white sugar and fiori di Sicilia. Stir in the chocolate. Cover and chill until ready to assemble (filling can also be made up to a day in advance).
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5.When the dough has risen, line 2 baking trays with baking paper. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, punch it down to release the air, and divide it into eight equal portions (10 if you like them smaller). Form each portion into a ball by cupping your hand tightly over it and rolling it around and around on the work surface, putting a bit of pressure on it as you roll; it doesn’t need to be perfectly shaped. Transfer balls to the lined baking trays as you finish them. Wet 2 light cotton towels, wring them out, and drape them over the trays. Set dough balls aside for 30 minutes to rest before you fill them.
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6.One at a time, flatten the balls as thinly as you can, leaving the centres a bit thicker. Put a spoonful of filling in the centre of each dough circle and bring the edges up to meet in the middle to make a kind of pouch, enclosing the filling. Pinch the edges to seal well and place the filled dough ball seam-side down on one of the baking trays. Repeat, leaving three finger-widths between each. Cover trays with plastic wrap and let dough balls rise for another 30 minutes, or until doubled in size.
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7.Fill a bowl with warm water and place the breadcrumbs on a small shallow baking tray or in a pie pan.
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8.If you’re going to fry the iris, pour 10cm oil into a heavy saucepan, place over medium heat and heat to 160°C. In the absence of a deep-fry thermometer, test the oil by inserting the handle of a wooden spoon. If bubbles form quickly against the handle, the oil is ready for frying.
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9.If you’re going to bake the iris, preheat oven to 160°C/140°C fan-forced.
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10.As the oil or the oven heats, gently dip each dough ball into the warm water and roll it in breadcrumbs to coat, letting excess crumbs fall back into the pan. Flatten each ball slightly and return it to its baking tray. When all are formed, bake or fry the iris.
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11.To fry, lower 1-2 iris at a time into hot oil, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry for about 4 minutes on each side until well browned all over and the breadcrumbs are crunchy. Drain on paper towels or a wire rack placed over a baking tray until cool enough to handle.
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12.To bake, slide the baking trays into the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, until the iris are well browned and the breadcrumbs are crunchy.
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13.Dust with icing sugar just before serving. Best eaten warm.
Recipe Notes
Orange, vanilla and floral essences combine to create a flavour that’s warm, spicy and smooth. It works almost anywhere you’d use pure vanilla extract. To make it, pour 480ml vodka into a jar and add the zest from 1 blood orange and 2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise. Put the lid on the jar and keep it in a cool, dark place for 40 days, shaking gently once or twice a day. Then stir in 1 tbs orange-blossom water and 1 tsp rosewater, cover and shake to mix. It gets better the longer it sits. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year, and shake before using.
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