Method

• 1.
  Line a flameproof roasting pan with 2 layers of foil. Combine the sugar and rice in a bowl.
• 2.
  Place bay leaf branches on the foil, then scatter over the sugar mixture. Sit a wire rack over the foil, then cover pan with 2 layers of foil.
• 3.
  Place pan over high heat for 6-8 minutes, until mixture starts to smoke. Remove foil and place grapes on rack. Cover with foil and smoke for a further 18-20 minutes, until slightly shrivelled.
• 4.
  Remove pan from heat and stand, covered, for 15 minutes. Using scissors, cut grapes into small clusters. Set aside to cool.
• 5.
  Pick 100g grapes and place in a small food processor and whiz until smooth.
• 6.
  Strain grape liquid through a fine sieve set over a jug. Discard solids. Add the zest, eschalot, thyme and oil to the grape juice and whisk to combine.
• 7.
  Arrange kingfish on a large chilled serving platter. Sprinkle with the remaining grapes, drizzle with the dressing and serve immediately with the chervil and lavosh.