Rutherglen may well be soaked in history and heritage, but staidness? Never. The small Victorian town, just a stone’s throw from the Murray River, led the way back in the 1850s when its winemakers won flash international medals for big reds and luscious fortifieds.

Fast-forward 160-odd years and there’s again an energetic vibe, with progressive winemakers creating exciting drops from the Rhone varietals of marsanne, roussanne and viognier. Tempranillo, sangiovese and zinfandel add variety, and some of Australia’s better sparkling reds are being made here. The food scene is also buoyant, with cafes and restaurants showcasing fabulous local produce and temping tastebuds – hordes of visitors almost beat down the doors at the Tastes of Rutherglen Festival each March.

Rutherglen is now home to more than 20 wineries, ranging from multi-generation winemaking families to newcomers such as Rowly Milhinch, who owns Scion Vineyard and Winery. Framed by a rich historical backdrop, the passionate winemaker is just beginning to forge his own history. So while raising a glass to Rutherglen’s enduring legacy, join Rowly as he takes us on a tour of his favourite eating and drinking spots around the region, starting off with his very own labour of love.

Rowly is following in the footsteps of his great-great-great-grandfather, George Francis Morris, who founded Morris Wines in 1859. The 34-year-old swapped a career as a graphic designer in Melbourne to establish Scion (74 Slaughterhouse Rd) in Rutherglen in 2002. The town was a natural choice for his 3.2-hectare vineyard, boutique winery and cellar door, and Rowly now directs his creative skills to producing contemporary small-batch wines that, he says, reflect place, a love of good food, and the exploration of all things unique and contemporary. “Our vision is to offer a creative narrative within the classic Rutherglen region, through aromatic, expressive wine styles. I love challenging expectations by making some really left-of-centre wines.” With that philosophy, visitors to Scion’s cellar door can expect an intimate and personalised wine experience.

The Murray River’s flat plains and the closeness of its cellar doors to one another make the region a breeze to explore by bike. Zip along the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail to The Pickled Sisters Cafe (Cofield Wines, Distillery Road, Wahgunyah) for their Seasonal Food Foray, a progressive picnic with a difference.

Owners Marion Hansford and Stewart Gilchrist will wave you off with a tiffin carrier of four produce-driven seasonal dishes. Cruise at your own pace to four wineries – Cofield, Pfeiffer, Stanton & Killeen and Buller, where they’ll match a course to a glass of wine. “No Lycra is required for this ride,” Rowly says.

For a meal steeped in history, head to the highly awarded Terrace Restaurant at Rutherglen’s All Saints Estate (All Saints Road, Wahgunyah). You’ll find it housed in a 150-year-old turreted castle at a vineyard that produced its first wine in 1864.

“When we’re feeling ritzy, we head to Terrace on a Saturday night,” Rowly says. “Chef Simon Arkless never fails to deliver contemporary, delicate and beautifully plated food. The menu features estate-grown lamb and pork, and all organic waste is fed to the winery animals or used as compost on the vines. “They even have a complimentary chauffeur to ferry you there and home (if arranged beforehand), so there’s no need for a relationship breakdown over who gets to enjoy the wine.”

Rutherglen wines may well surprise you. “Many of my favourite local wines are generally delicious surprises for those who make assumptions about what Rutherglen produces,” Rowly says. Tour its cellar doors and you might discover aperitifs such as Morris Wines’ Mia Pale Flor Apera, well-crafted whites like Valhalla’s marsanne, savoury reds from Jones Winery and Vineyard, and contemporary classics such as Stanton & Killeen’s Rutherglen White Fortified. “It’s no secret that Rutherglen has perfected crafting wines with intensity over the past 150 years. However, I’m passionate about exploring wines that challenge this expectation,” says Rowly.

Embark on a back-vintage tasting at Campbells of Rutherglen (4603 Murray Valley Hwy). Throughout the year, aged white and red table wines feature at their cellar door’s tasting bench, alongside current releases.

“Many wines can be best understood with some bottle age,” says Rowly. “We often visit Campbells with friends to help them explore how some wines really sing when left to age. Tasting aged wines also highlights good winemaking coupled with quality fruit with balance and structure, setting up a great cellaring journey.”

Rutherglen winemaker Mandy Jones knows French food inside out, having spent 14 years making wine in France and even squeezing in a stint at Le Cordon Bleu Paris culinary school.

“We’ve loved eating our way around France on our travels, and lunch at Jones Winery Restaurant (61 Jones Road) is a delicious reminder of those simple yet elegant dishes found in French cafes,” says Rowly.

Cosy up with confit duck, beautifully buttery tarts or a warming croque monsieur. Or pre-order a generous seasonal picnic hamper for two created by the Jones team for lunch on the go.

For those who like to do their bike riding in retro style, Rutherglen’s Tweed Ride is a must. This leisurely, food-fuelled outing takes place during North East Victoria’s High Country Harvest in May, and sees dozens of cyclists visit Rutherglen’s open wine country for a 20-kilometre ride, interspersed with three stops showcasing autumn produce and regional wines. “Pack your vintage attire and retro bikes, as riders are encouraged – and do wholeheartedly – embrace the theme,” says Rowly.