In truth, there’s no simple way to describe Western Australia. The mammoth landmass stretches across a staggering 2.5 million square kilometres of geographical extremes, from the crystal waters of Ningaloo Reef to the rich red dirt of Broome to the rocky outcrop of the Zuytdorp Cliffs. It’s Eden for the outdoors inclined, including the burgeoning surfing communities that populate its coastline, drawn by easy access to the Indian Ocean. And while WA may be increasingly renowned for its swell, Instagram-friendly quokka population and national treasure Tim Winton, its major attraction remains Margaret River, nuzzled in the state’s southwest. It’s a region made up of six key surf towns, rolling pasture and, of course, vineyards: a 90-kilometre stretch running north to south from Busselton to Augusta.

It wouldn’t be fair to discuss ‘Margs’ without ample mention of its greatest calling card – the vines. Voyager Estate may just be the region’s most prolific vineyard. The family-owned enterprise was launched by mining magnate Michael Wright and his kin, and remains helmed by his daughters, Alexandra Burt and Leonie Baldock. “Not only are we committed to place, we are defined by it,” explains Burt of the local community of winemakers. “We have a great reputation at home and internationally for world-class chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, but we also have the ability to try new things. When my father planted the first vines in Margaret River 40 years ago, he knew this soil would be the gift that keeps on giving, as long as we continue to nurture it.” And they’ve certainly done exactly that. The estate’s recent birthday proved wine-making isn’t just a side hobby for the family, but a full-fledged passion. Voyager is focused on continued innovation in both production and sustainability, recently announcing that it would be ‘transitioning’ its vines in order for them to be labelled ‘Australian Certified Organic’. Burt attributes Voyager’s success to “a combination of place and people. Our people are driven by a love for agriculture and dedication to craftsmanship, from the vineyards to the cellar door.”

Proving that food and wine go hand-in-hand, the vineyard has also overhauled its food direction, appointing Spanish-born Santiago ‘Santi’ Fernandez as head chef. Fernandez has introduced four-course and seven-course degustation menus that maintain the restaurant’s ‘wine first’ philosophy but make better use of the district’s abundance of produce. Lunch is served within the eclectically decorated and imposing Cape Dutch building on site. Once the eating has wound down (and, I guarantee, your top button has been undone), burn off some of that food with a stroll around the flourishing rose garden, to admire the resplendent alabaster buildings and the bountiful kitchen garden – a recent addition.

Voyager Estate is, of course, only one of many vineyards scattered through the rural district; Margaret River, after all, produces a staggering 20 per cent of Australia’s premium wine. The region’s first commercial vines were planted in 1967 and have flourished since, blossoming into a district boasting more than 95 cellar doors. That Margaret River is a maritime region with a Mediterraneanesque climate has gifted it a reputation for its chardonnay. However, those who aren’t fans will find many other vineyards with a focus beyond the velvety, buttery white. In recent years, the region has become home to some of the country’s more experimental makers. Josephine Perry, a former Riedel Young Gun of Wine winner, runs the small-batch winery Dormilona, which may not possess a cellar door but is creating quite a stir in the wine industry with its recently certified-organic drops.

Si Vintners is also making a mark on the Margaret River wine scene. Its varieties are found in innovative new wine stores and some of the country’s best restaurants. Sarah Morris and Iwo Jakimowicz are the couple behind the vineyard, moving to the area after stints making wine in Italy, Spain and Switzerland. The duo’s passion for biodynamic farming is catching, and is best explored glass (or two) in hand at their cellar door in outer Rosa Glen, where they live with their children and a bevy of animals – ducks, geese, two dogs and a cat at last count.

Before your day of vine exploration begins, wander into Margaret River town itself to stock up on buttery pastries from Margaret River Bakery. An eclectic mix of furniture and knick-knacks kit out the space, where the coffee is good and the bread-based products are highly sought after. Should you choose to continue to fuel your carb addiction later in the day, also worth a visit is Margaret River Woodfired Bread (it’s only open in the afternoon). A true haven of traditional sourdoughs and ryes, the shop is owned by baker and impressively moustached German native Gotthard Bauer. Bauer’s loaves have proved so popular, he has set up a second store in neighbouring Yallingup, as well as the much-loved German treats stop Yallingup Gugelhupf. More artisanal edible goods can be found every Saturday morning at the Margaret River Farmers’ Market, which was recently awarded Outstanding Farmers’ Market at this year’s delicious. Produce Awards. Amid this talented congregation of producers, bakers and makers, you are sure to leave with bags bursting with delectable treats and the very best local offerings.

If pastry just doesn’t cut it, there is heartier fare aplenty. Thanks to a steady stream of tourists flocking to the surrounding vineyards, Margaret River boasts several not-to-be-missed restaurants. Among them you’ll find new resident Miki’s Open Kitchen, a dedicated tempura bar with an impressive wine list (as you would expect). While experimental at times, the venue offers fine dining in a casual setting and has proven a hit with locals and visitors alike, thanks in part to the charms of owner and head chef Mikihito Nagai. Slightly further afield in Dunsborough is Yarri Restaurant and Bar. Praised for its celebration of indigenous ingredients, the restaurant comes courtesy of the team behind the famed Snake + Herring vineyard. An ample selection of its wines is joined by a pleasing array of other local drops. The menu is equally an ode to the shire; chef Aaron Carr crafts food that draws on the six seasons of Western Australia’s Nyungar people. A coterie of nearby small producers and suppliers inspire and enable Carr’s noteworthy creations, such as woodfired marron, paired with XO and saltbush. A good rule of thumb around other locations for finer fare is to set your sat-nav for many of Margaret River’s vineyards, where quality drops often find worthy competition on the plate through a push to provide guests with something to both tipple and nibble. Following that advice, the restaurants at Vasse Felix and Cullen Wines – both champions of local produce – perhaps boast the best reputations for creating memorable dishes (for all the right reasons).

The best way to wash away any hangover from feasting on fine food and wine is a little salt therapy courtesy of the Indian Ocean. Margaret River is not just nirvana for the gourmand, but holds plenty of promise for the surfer, too, so pack your board and wetsuit – the water is fresh and the swell is legendary. Even if you only watch others get in on the action, it’s well worth the trip. One of the most famed surfing spots is Surfers Point at Prevelly. The break attracts plenty of visitors by day, but it truly comes alive in the evening as the sun sinks below the horizon. You’ll find picnics dotted around the beach, and roving groups gather (drinks in hand) to watch the vivid red sunsets. Just around the corner from Surfers Point is Gnarabup Beach, the longest and most popular swimming beach in Prevelly. A jetty there beckons you to jump off into cool blue waters, and early morning swimmers gather for coffee at The White Elephant Cafe, a casual eatery with unbeatable views. Those preferring to stay on dry land will find solace in the walks that wind along the sand dunes, offering glimpses of untouched coastline.

There’s no shortage of boutique options throughout the region. Perhaps the most widely known is Cape Lodge in Yallingup. Comfortable, well-appointed rooms await at the exclusive country house hotel, which accommodates only 44 guests at a time. As if you needed more convincing to book a stay, Cape Lodge sits in the middle of a vineyard, making the stumble, er, stroll home from the day’s wine tasting a conveniently short one. Closer to Dunsborough is Pullman Bunker Bay, a coastal retreat that caters to a range of budgets and requirements, from a studio-style room to a three-bedroom villa with beach access. With an on-site day spa, the resort is big on relaxation. My suggestion? Forgo the creature comforts (for a night or two anyway) and instead grab a tent, hit the road and find a spot in this magical place to call your own. Just don’t forget the wine!