Pack your appetite because Canada’s gone all out. Words by Lindy Alexander.
Canada sure knows how to do food. From traditional Jewish delis and tapping maple trees to cheese feasts and unbelievably fresh seafood, this beautiful country has a bounty of fare. Here are our top 10 places to visit to fulfil your Canadian foodie fantasies.
Montreal for its smoked meats
If you thought poutine was the quintessential Canadian dish, you might want to reconsider. Head east to Montreal and make sure you stop in at an authentic deli (we love Schwartz’s Montreal Hebrew Deli) for some viande fumée – smoked meat. It may not be the prettiest thing you’ve ever eaten, but odds-on it is going to be one of the most delicious. A cross between corned beef and pastrami, smoked meat is best served on rye bread with a generous dollop of mustard.
Bagels in Quebec
You haven’t had a bagel until you’ve feasted on one fresh from the oven in Quebec. Smaller, denser and chewier than their New York counterparts, classic Quebec bagels are hand-rolled and wood-fired. For the best bagels any time of the day or night, go to St-Viateur Bagel in Montreal (open 24 hours), where you can grab a seat and watch the bakers at work.
Sugar shack: tapping maple trees
There’s something magical about putting a spout in a tree and collecting the sweet syrup as it drips into a pail. Especially when it’s below zero and you get to sample the syrupy goodness. At Sucrerie de la Montagne, in Montreal’s west, you can learn how to tap a maple tree, watch as it is transformed into maple syrup in a traditional wood-fire evaporator, and then partake in the ultimate sugaring-off feast. You’ll never tolerate the imitation stuff again.
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
The saying ‘pretty as a picture’ may well have originated in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The colourful clapboard houses perched on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean have been declared a National Historic and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Explore the culture and history of the town, as well as sample freshly caught seafood. Almost every restaurant in the village serves incredible scallops – for casual dining during summer, it’s hard to beat The South Shore Fish Shack or, if you like your scallops a little more refined, book a table at Rime Restaurant.
Lobsters of Prince Edward Island
Canada’s smallest province has a big reputation. Prince Edward Island is legendary for its lobsters, and for good reason. Commonly thought to be the best in the world, PEI’s lobsters have incredibly tender meat and bright-red shells. For something that is so luxurious, they are often best served without frills – hot with lashings of butter. And no one does it better on PEI than Fishbones, an understated restaurant that keeps it simple.
Salmon of British Columbia
A visit to Canada wouldn’t be complete without feasting on wild salmon from British Columbia (BC). Several species are harvested and caught – ranging from the Chinook with its rich flavour and firm flesh, to Pink salmon, which is a dusky pink colour and has a subtle flavour. Much of the salmon in BC is caught by gillnet or hook and line, making it not only delicious but also sustainable.
Fine dining in Calgary
Pull on your finest threads and head out for a special night in Calgary. While it may be known for its annual rodeo event – the Calgary Stampede – the fine-dining scene in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains is starting to capture the nation’s attention. With its commitment to locally sourced meat and produce, The Guild offers dishes that you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. The slow-roasted bison is a standout, served with prairie corn, black barley, huckleberries, pickled leeks and birch sap glaze.
Cheeses of the Charlevoix region of Quebec
Did someone say cheese? Artisanal cheese makers produce more than 300 varieties of cheese in Quebec, from cheddar and Trappist to Swiss and unique regional types made from raw milk. The best way to make your cheese dreams come true is by being a cheese tourist and travelling the route des fromages through Quebec’s picturesque Charlevoix region – where you can meet some of the province’s finest cheese makers.
Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland and Labrador
Step off the well-worn tourist track and head to the northeast coast of Newfoundland and Labrador to Fogo Island. It’s a remote and rugged place where you can spot migrating whales and floating icebergs in spring, and feast on edible berries that cover the island in autumn. The multi-award-winning Fogo Island Inn has to be seen to be believed, perched high on stilts overlooking the famed Iceberg Alley. Sitting under the vaulted ceiling of the dining room and gazing out over the ocean, you feel as if you are at the edge of the world. And that’s before the food arrives and transports you to another place entirely.
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Wine production has been a feature of this picturesque valley since the 1850s. While the Okanagan is predominantly known for its merlot, pinot gris, pinot noir and chardonnay, the wineries and wine trails throughout this region showcase everything in-between. It’s worth visiting Nk’Mip, the first Aboriginal-owned winery in North America for their award-winning merlot and chardonnay. For a winery whose greenery extends beyond the vines, stop in at Tantalus, where herbicides are prohibited and there is a four-hectare natural dryland forest in the middle of the vineyard.
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