8.30am: Elephant in the fort

It’s worth rising early to beat the crowds at Amer Fort in the town of Amer. Catch an elephant to the top and invest in a local guide. Highlights include Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory), with its mirrored ceiling and viewof Maota Lake from the palace ramparts.

11am: Lassi pit stop

Refresh with the best lassis in Rajasthan at Lassiwala (192 Link Rd, Bapu Bazar), served in disposable clay cups. Imitators have opened directly next door under the same name, but you can spot the original thanks to its green and white-striped awning and silver lettering boasting: since 1944.

2pm: Bargain like a local

The vibrant Johari Bazar (Johari Bazar Rd) is famed for gemstones and jewellery, but shopkeepers will sell you every shade of sari here, too. Haggle over leather sandals and trinkets before continuing south along Johari Bazar Rd until you reach Sanganeri Gate and Bapu Bazar.

4pm: Street snacks

Gol gappe translates to ‘round gossip’ and at this particular stand outside Jyotika Fashion Point (161-A, Link Rd, Bapu market), women in local garb giggle and natter while eating the crisp spheres, which are stuffed with spiced potato and chickpea and drowned in sweet tamarind chutney. The best samosas in Jaipur are around the corner inside Golcha Cinema, a pink Art Deco building reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film.

Monkey Temple

For a truly special experience drive 30-minutes to Galta Ji, a Hindu temple inthe Aravalli Hills. Pilgrims bathe in pools filled by a natural spring as troupes of monkeys watch from vantage points.

7pm: Cafeteria curry

Head back to the centre for a relaxed, canteen-style dinner at Chitra Cafeteria (Hotel Arya Niwas, Sansar Chandra Rd). Display plates of dishes are laid out for your convenience – everything from paneer and kofta in fragrant gravies to vegetable curries

 9pm: The Royal Check In

Follow in royalty’s footsteps and make the Taj Rambagh Palace your base (Bahraini Singh Rd). Alternatively, stay in one of the city’s ornate haveli (mansion) such as Alsisar Haveli (pictured – Sansar Chandra Rd) which is very central and heaving with history.