8am: Market place

You’re in the birthplace of bouillabaisse, so a visit to the fish market, held daily on the Quai des Belges at the Old Port, is a must. Buy the catch of the day fresh off the boat – perhaps red mullet or gurnard – and have it cleaned for you, as you watch the city’s restaurateurs shop for the day’s produce.

10am: Cultural cachet

Explore European and Mediterranean civilisations at the MuCEM (Promenade Robert Laffont), which was completed in June 2013 after 10 years in the planning. Three-Michelin-starred chef Gerald Passedat is chef-in-residence here, and his cafe is the perfect spot to recharge.

12pm: Long lunch

Many restaurants claim to offer the best bouillabaisse, but Le Miramar (12 Quai du Port) at the Old Port is rightfully popular with tourists and locals alike. Both Chez Fonfon (140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes) and Grand Bar des Goudes (29 Avenue Desire-Pelleprat) offer an extraordinary selection of fresh seafood. For smaller bites, make your way to Le Bistrot d’edouard (150 Rue Jean Mermoz), Edouard Giribone’s tapas restaurant housed in a Provencal Cottage. It’s very popular, so it’s wise to plan ahead to sample the casual, regional menu.

4pm: Cool change

For dessert, head to L’Elephant Rose a Pois Blancs (3 Rue des Trois Rois) for glaces made with seasonal ingredients. Try the apple Tatin ice cream or hibiscus flower sorbet.

6pm: Sunset drinks

A Marseilles experience would not be complete without sampling a Pastis, the drink that epitomises the city and, indeed, Provence. Served with ice and water on the side, the aniseed-favoured spirit is the ideal aperitif. Cafe Populaire (110 Rue Paradis) lives up to its name. Perch on a stool with a Pastis or cocktail and watch the chefs in the open kitchen as they cook grilled squid and manchego croquettes.

8pm: Serious dining

Try Chez Michel (6 Rue des Catalans) for the freshest seafood. Nearby, Les Panisses (23 Rue Sainte) offers small meals to share, with an unmissable dessert list. Culinary adventurers should head to chef Gerald Passedat’s three-starred Le Petit Nice (17 Rue des Braves), where he offers a studied insight into the city’s multiculturalism while staying true to his French heritage.

10pm: All that jazz

Granted, it’s in a touristy part of town, but La Caravelle (34 Quai du Port) is a perfect place to end a day of exploring, especially through the warmer months. It’s been going strong since the 1920s, and once you’re there, you’ll understand why. With its stunning views to Notre-Dame de la Garde cathedral and the Old Port, this is the spot to pull up a seat on the balcony, listen to live jazz and enjoy the passing parade.

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