The south of Italy is notoriously more laidback than the north, and nowhere delivers that laidback southern hospitality like Puglia, an untamed region at the heel of the ‘boot’ where ancient olive groves, sandy beaches, crystal bays, sleepy hilltop villages and traditional dishes served with bold wines offer serious sex appeal.

Head for the hills

Coffee & More (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 1), in the magical ‘white city’ of Ostuni, is one of those places you could quite easily forget to leave. In the morning, espresso and freshly squeezed juices are served with generous slices of strawberry ricotta cheesecake or fruity gluten-free tarts made daily by the welcoming owner, Ursula. In the evening, Aperol spritz, Rossini cocktails (prosecco spiked with puréed strawberries) and glasses of local primitivo red wine fly to tables as fast as bullets, accompanied by abundant aperitivo platters and the ubiquitous local taralli biscuits in every flavour.

Sweet stop

As with pasta, when it comes to biscotti, every Italian village has its mascot. In the Baroque town of Ceglie Messapica, the allure of the eponymous Ceglie biscotti, made with local almonds, honey and cherry jam, draws crowds into the labyrinthine historical centre. Try glazed and unglazed renditions at Caffee Centrale (Corso Garibaldi, 22) with a coffee or shot of the local saffron liqueur, or follow your nose to Forno a Legna, also known to locals as Sisina Bakery, a hole in the wall off Via Pendinello.

Pranziamo! – ‘let’s lunch!’

Head back to Ostuni for a ridiculously well-priced lunch of Puglia’s greatest hits at Osteria del Tempo Perso (Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 47). The cosy restaurant is built into the hillside, so take in the view of the Adriatic Sea before you step inside the cave dining room. Verdeca white wine is a perfect match for handmade paccheri pasta with local prawns, or orecchiette with wild greens. Tiramisu fans, save room for dessert!

Coasting along

The region is bordered by the Mediterranean on one side and and Adriatic on the other, so there is no shortage of coastline to explore. Torre dell’Orso in Salento is said to be the most beautiful bay in the area, and the crystal water, along with natural rock formations, is just half of the appeal. Waterside Pasticceria Dentoni (Via Matteotti, 23) has comprehensive gelato and pastry offerings, including vegan and gluten-free options among the classics.

Country hospitality

Many masseria (traditional farm estates) have been transformed into luxe stays with restaurants offering a taste of local produce and conviviality. You don’t have to sleep at Masseria il Frantoio to experience one of their epic seasonal degustations, which feature citrus fruits from their grove, vegetables from the kitchen garden, housemade bread, local olive oil and herbs that grow wild among the poppies and dry-stone fences.

Faitytale ending

The conical stone buildings called trulli that dot the landscape were originally used by peasant farmers, but today they serve as fairytale holiday homes. Trulli Roccia, a 15-minute drive from Ostuni, is ideal for secluded self-catering with three ensuite bedrooms, a large kitchen, indoor-outdoor dining, swimming pool and woodfired pizza oven. Masseria Moroseta offers B&B hospitality wrapped in sleek design. The converted farmhouse has elegant whitewashed rooms with modern furniture and sculptural cactus gardens. Breakfast is just as stylish, served poolside on local ceramics.