Bordered by the Italian Alps and a stone’s throw from France, the elegant capital of the Piedmont region is wildly underrated. Sydneysider Alecia Wood fell hard for the northern Italian city - so much so, she now calls it home. Here are her favourite spots.
9am: Breakfast of champions
Turin boasts a history of chocolate making, with plenty of cioccolaterie around town. Kick off at Caffè al Bicerin, where its namesake bicerin – an espresso-spiked hot chocolate layered with cream – has been served up since 1763. Need another cocoa hit? Double up with their grilled toastie stuffed with chocolate.
11am: To market, to market
The ever-bustling Porta Palazzo is said to house the biggest outdoor markets in Europe. Some 800 stalls run every day but Sunday, stocking local fresh produce, olives, salumi and cheeses, whose vendors are known to offer assaggi – little tastes of their products – to visitors.
12pm: Slow Food champion
A cosy osteria atmosphere meets elegant restaurant dishes that offer a twist on Piedmontese classics at Ristorante Consorzio. The kitchen uses a range of artisanal products endorsed by Slow Food (the movement was founded in this region). Try the ‘La Cruda’ antipasto, a modern take on carne cruda – a local version of steak tartare using the ultra lean beef of the Piedmontese cattle breed – served three ways: finely chopped, as a breadcrumb-dusted fillet, and minced mixed with fat and nutmeg.
2pm: Built beauties
Head to Piazza Castello to marvel at the baroque façade of the Palazzo Madama. Turn down Via Roma for a spot of window shopping beneath giant porticoes before arriving at Piazza San Carlo, an expansive 17th Century square whose grand scale recalls regal forecourts.
4pm: Cinema and scenery
Built in 1889, the Mole Antonelliana tower is the emblem of the city, housing the National Cinema Museum and a glass-walled lift that carries guests 85 metres up through the centre of the building. On arrival at the cupola, a viewing platform offers 360-degree vistas over Turin.
6pm: Aperitivo hour
Northern Italy knows how to do a proper aperitivo – a pre-dinner drink served with a selection of miniature snacks. Caffè Mulassano is tiny in size but large on charm, bedecked with a marble bar, carved wooden panelling, and mirrors to boot. Try their signature Mulassano Spritz, made with house-made vermouth, brought to the table with a silver platter of little finger sandwiches and tarts.
8pm: Passion for Piedmont
Simple timber furniture and an intimate dining space make way for local specialties at L’Acino in the cobblestoned Quadrilatero Romano district. Go for traditional Piedmontese specialites at this packed trattoria: start with vitello tonnato, finely sliced roast veal topped with tuna mayonnaise; followed by tajarin al ragù, a more delicate take on tagliatelle; and chocolate bonet to finish, a rich, baked eggy pudding.
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