Pizza at Emma Pizzeria con cucina

Non-resident Italian chefs eat here when they visit Italy. Here the pizze are stunning in their simplicity: thin, crisp crusts and only a couple of perfect toppings: just tomato and mozzarella, or fresh porcini, zucchini flowers and mozzarella all with characteristic wood-fired smokiness.

Porcini spaghetti, risotto or gnocchi

Restaurants will have fresh porcini on display outside during the season which is in autumn, though they are preserved in oil at other times. There is no substitute for the pungent earthy, meaty, almost nutty flavour and creamy texture – ultimate umami.

Gelato or almost anything at Eataly, Piazza della Repubblica

Spread over many floors featuring only Italian and mostly organic products divided into different mini restaurants: La Pasta, La Pizza, La Carne, Il Fritto, I Salui e I Formaggi, La Pasticceria, Lait Gelato, Enoteca e Birreria, Il Bar and Il Mercato. Eat any of the specialities or from the whole menu in any of these areas or take away. Dried and fresh pasta, pizza made with organic stone-ground flour and four types of dough; Piemontese beef meat breed, from Slow Food protected area of “la Granda” or Gruppo Ethos’ Black Angus; all types of fried fish, meat and vegetables; cold cuts and cheeses; pastry art by Luca di Montersino and Gruppo Ethos pastry chefs, amazing gelato made only with milk from real Piemonte cattle from mountain grazing lands and an enticing wine and drinks list. Or try the Black Grill comprising a selection of three lesser known cuts of Black Angus cooked on a pit – the top of the neck, shoulder and bavette. Season from the pepper grinders on the table – Pep Nero, Malaaetta, Szechuan and Cubebe.

Visit the Campo dei Fiori market

Translated literally as “field of flowers”, this marketplace is one of the only open air markets left in the centre of Rome. Taste a dizzying array of salume or buy almost any type of sausage or cured meat beneath legs of prosciutto hanging from the ceiling at shops like Norcineria Viola. Norcia is particularly famous for its sausages and pork products and has given its name to shops like this as “Norcineria” means a place where you can buy all sorts of specialised salami type sausages all over Italy.

Visit the Jewish Quarter

Buy a freshly-cooked pastry, perhaps the famous Torta di Rose, a warm scroll, rich with the flavour of cinnamon, walnuts and sugar syrup.