Swiit (Baixada de Viladecols): in an old print workshop near Plaça Traginers, this artisan helado (ice cream) parlour offers old-world atmosphere and creamy treats. Flavours change weekly and include the likes of creamy coconut, mascarpone and fig, ginger and pear, and dark chocolate sorbet.

Marula Café (Carrer dels Escudellers, 49): hugely popular with the hip, slightly more mature crowd, Marula Café is a time warp of a venue dedicated to danceable old-school funk, disco, soul and Afrobeat. The vibe is casual and unpretentious. Arrive before 2am – still early, by Spanish standards – for free or reduced entry.

Boadas Cocktails (Carrer dels Tallers, 1): the oldest cocktail bar in Barcelona traces its origins back to the early ’20s when Miguel Boadas moved to Cuba to work at his cousin’s bar, El Floridita, immortalised in these words by Ernest Hemingway: “My mojito at La Bodeguita and my daiquiri in El Floridita.” Miguel returned home and opened his own El Floridita-inspired bar. Try the cocktail of the day, or take Hemingway’s word for it and order a daiquiri.

Bodega Maestrazgo (Carrer de Sant Pere Mes Baix, 90): charmingly, little has changed at this family-run warehousecum- wine bar since it opened in 1952. Grab a seat at one of the rustic wooden tables and ask for a few recommendations. Whether it’s Catalan or Galician, there’s always an exciting wine to try. Pop in before lunch for a good-value aperitivo of vermouth, olives and potato chips.

Bar Del Pla (Carrer de Montcada, 2): on what would have been medieval Barcelona’s most glamorous street, Bar del Pla keeps the glamour alive with grand decor, first-class service and creative tapas at affordable prices.

Salt Beach Club (Passeig del Mare Nostrum): this sophisticated beach club is run by the five-star W Hotel, located within spitting distance of the water’s edge. Whilst the old‑school chiringuitos down the coast serve up microwaved marvels, at Salt you can enjoy fresh crab salads and gourmet smokehouse burgers at reasonable prices. Go between 5pm and 9pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights for the ‘Summer Sounds’ DJ sets.

Disfrutar (Carrer de Villarroel, 163): created by three Catalan chefs who earned their stripes at El Bulli, Disfrutar is the ideal place to explore progressive Catalan cooking. Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch create immensely imaginative dishes: think rose petals splashed with lychee and beads of gin, or amber-coated hazelnuts that you eat with your hands after coating them in 16-year-old Scotch. Tasting menus range from the 20-course Classic (120€) to the 26-course Gran Classic (150€) and the ‘let’s go all out’ 31-course Disfrutar (185€).

Barna Brew (Carrer del Parlament, 45): with a huge onsite brewery and creative tapas dishes, this vibrant brewpub is a great spot for sipping award-winning craft beer on Sant Antoni’s trendy Carrer del Parlament. Start with the light and crispy Pils Parlament before moving on to the blonde ale, dark ale and IPA. The food is great, too – try the Moreneta veal burger.

This is an edited extract from Barcelona Precincts by Ben Holbrook published by Hardie Grant Books (RRP $39.99) and is available where all good books are sold.