Ancient history, turbulent present-day politics, abandoned villages, scrubby coastlines and a conflux of cultures and religions come alive on this sunny Mediterranean island nation, writes Matty Hirsch.
Admire the mosaics in Paphos Archaeological Park
This expansive collection of monuments and still-being-excavated sites is home to churches, temples, tombs and theatres — some of which date back to prehistoric times — but the mosaics are the star attraction. Accidentally uncovered by a farmer in 1962, they’re considered by many to be among the world’s finest and most well-preserved, depicting epic scenes from Greek mythology in dazzling detail.

Get lost in the Troodos Mountains
Cyprus’s largest mountain range merits exploration at any time of year. In winter, the snow-covered slopes become a favourite for skiers and snowboarders alike, while in summer, trails punctuated by waterfalls and quaint Byzantine churches invite hikers and cyclists of all levels. Rest your head along the way in one of many tiny hamlets with cobbled streets, and enjoy the rustic hospitality.
Soak in the views from Saint Hilarion Castle
Don a pair of sensible shoes. You’ll need them to conquer the gruelling climb to the top of this 11th-century castle that, from a distance, seems etched into the stony mountain landscape. Take your time meandering through the various tunnels and towers across all three levels, and keep your eyes peeled for a glimpse of Turkey’s Taurus Mountains on a clear day.

Taste the world’s most ancient wine
Commandaria, a sweet, sometimes fortified amber wine with a history that dates back over 2,000 years, is the oldest manufactured wine on the planet according to Guiness World Records. Today, just over a dozen small farming villages dotted across the mountainous region that shares its name produce the sherry-like wine that pairs perfectly with the country’s much-loved goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses.
Take a dip in a Blue Lagoon
Neither the secluded enclave near the island’s westernmost tip, nor the more popular cove off the opposite coast below Cape Greco National Forest Park is easy to reach. No matter. Whether it’s by boat, quad bike or four-wheel drive, do whatever it takes to seek out one of these aptly-named swimming spots for water that is crystal clear in the absolute truest sense.

See Nicosia from both sides
The Cypriot city is the world’s last divided capital. A decades-long political stalemate has left the city split in two, divided by a demilitarised border zone monitored by the UN. Crossing between the Turkish north to the Greek south on bustling Ledra Street is uncomplicated (bring your passport!), if somewhat eye-opening, but it’s imbued with a sense of living history unlike anywhere else.
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