We’ve all been to barbecues where one person takes the tongs, eschews all advice and proclaims themselves Master of the Weber. The next time that occurs, slip Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallman their way and see if they are not put resolutely in their place.

When it comes to the art of the barbecue, the Argentines and Uruguayans are without peer. Australians also have access to top-quality grass-fed meat, but there is much we can learn from dramatic gaucho grilling.

Asado is the term that describes the near-ritualistic celebration of meat that is the cornerstone of South America’s culinary culture. While the quality of the meat is key, it is the mastery of flame, ember and ash that elevates this method of cooking from simple ‘slap it on the barbie’ to a whole school of thought. The outward simplicity of a perfectly grilled piece of meat belies the sophistication of the tradition. I was lucky enough to be invited to an asado in Uruguay, where I was shown the complexity of taming fire and using it to extract the most flavour from every part of every animal. Out in the pasture, we broke down the carcasses, artfully constructed fires that collapsed to a precise smoulder, then carefully cooked every part of the animal. Beef ribs slowly grilled until the meat just held together and sweetbreads quickly sizzled on the parilla or grill as a snack, all served with the punchy South American pesto, chimichurri.

Cooking with a wood fire can be fickle, but it’s almost always rewarding. The wood and smoke impart intense flavour, while the coals emanate a heat that is quite different to flame, and timing becomes an exhilarating dance. Though it might sound like a major production, wood burning for barbecuing is actually quite simple to do at home. Perhaps it’s time to start playing with fire.

For the lamb al asador with chimichurri and kumara wedges recipe click here.