Valencian cuisine is a unique mix of Moorish, Catalan and regional influences, making it one of Spain’s most diverse gastronomical scenes. Rosamund Brennan roams through the Ruzafa neighbourhood on foot, visiting century’s old bodegas, tasting local vermouth and discovering the best hole-in-the-wall eateries for authentic Valencian fare.

Mercat De Russafa

Situated in a retro-chic brutalist building dating from 1957, this market is as loud and lively as the barrio that surrounds it. Inside you will find a Valencian produce market in all its glory: check out the sweet-potato and roasted-pumpkin stalls, the olives and pickled encurtidos. 

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Ricard Camarena

Serving up contemporary Valencian cuisine that is ‘high on technique, creativity and flavour’ is Richard Camarena’s self-titled restaurant. Boasting two Michelin stars, its chic, relaxing setting in a converted warehouse is equally impressive.

Dos Estaciones 

Translating to ‘Two Seasons’, this contemporary Mediterranean restaurant is run by two-chefs whose passion for their work spills over into the small space. The best part: watching them work their magic in the open kitchen.

Casa Roberto

Devour paella to your heart’s content at this local institution. Founded in 1986, it’s remained a stalwart of the foodie scene thanks to its friendly service and authentic Valencian fare.

Restaurant El Rodamon De Russafa

Offering a refreshing mix of traditional and contemporary tapas is this famous Ruzafa restaurant. Expect rule-breaking nosh like mini Black Angus burgers, served up alongside old favourites like croquetas and patatas bravas.

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Ubik

A café-cum-bookstore (aka heaven), Ubik is credited with kickstarting the area’s cultural renaissance. Live music, workshops and craft beer are just some of the highlights of this quirky hangout.

Fifth generation butcher

Meat lovers can shop at fifth generation butchers selling ecological beef and even Japan-imported Kobe beef, 

Finestra

For something cheap and cheerful, head to this hole in the wall pizzeria – small in stature, but not in soul. You can nab a beer and a small pizza for a handful of spare change. 

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Jardin Urbino

A garden shop turned eccentric café filled with plant-life, art and old books, this bohemian spot is a local favourite. They also do a mean orxata and great snacks. 

La Conservera

Got a hankering for some fruits de la mare? Head to this small Portuguese-style seafood bar, offering a traditional menu and a heart-warming atmosphere.

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Canalla Bistro

Headed up by revered chef Ricard Camarena, Canella Bistro offers inventive takes on world cuisine, such as Mexican tacos stuffed with oxtail and mushrooms or a smoked nigiri sandwich.

Circa Almacén 

Part deli, part coffee shop, Circa Almacén offers modern brunches which, although not traditionally Spanish, are embraced head-on by locals and visitors.