When visiting Ortigia, a small island in Syracuse, Sicily, you’ll likely come across Caseificio Borderi. Located in the local market, this humble looking deli is renowned for its homemade cheeses — the hero ingredient of its made-to-order sandwiches that regularly rate among Sicily’s top food offerings.

Head to the deli at lunch time and you’ll likely see a handful of staff rushing around prepping ingredients and serving the lucky few who have managed to score a table. Those who speak English occasionally field queries from confused tourists who wait in line, assuring them it moves quickly. There’s a ticketing system but don’t be surprised if it’s only loosely observed (welcome to Sicily).

The deli is owned by Andrea and Gaetano Borderi, the son and grandson of Don Pasquale Borderi who first founded the family business. A large part of the deli’s success is due to the owners’ penchant for turning the simple act of making a sandwich into a theatrical spectacle. It’s not uncommon for customers to cheer as they’re handed their orders, having often happily waited around two hours in line just for this moment.

There’s no real ordering process; at best, you’ll simply be asked if there are any ingredients you don’t enjoy. From there several sandwiches are made at once, with everything chopped or sliced to serve. Each one is carefully layered by either Andrea or Gaetano with sundried tomatoes, lettuce, herbs, lemon juice, an entire ball of freshly-made buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, garlic paste, onion jam, eggplant, mushrooms and ham wrapped in provolone.

There’s an artistic flair to the process, so not every sandwich is exactly the same. Pesto, prosciutto, salami, olives, pecorino and Ragusano (cow’s-milk cheese produced in Ragusa, Sicily) are some of the other ingredients regularly used. Each sandwich costs €6 and can easily be shared between two people.

The combination of cheeses is what sets this sandwich apart. While brimming with ingredients, it is surprisingly compact enough to comfortably eat, with flavour permeating every bite.

To avoid hours queuing, your best bet is to visit Caseificio Borderi at 9.30am when they start taking sandwich orders. Otherwise, if you must go at peak time, try and snag one of the few outdoor tables where you can not only order the famous sandwiches, but also a platter of cheese and meats for around €10 extra.

Caseificio Borderi

Ortigia Market, Via Emmanuele de Benedictis 6

Syracuse, Italy

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