How far would you go to eat a perfectly plump oyster plucked from the crisp waters of Canada’s New London Bay? Sitting in a flat-bottomed boat during a two-hour Shuck & Sea oyster farming and tasting tour with James Power, General Manager of Raspberry Point Oysters, I weave a story of my journey to get to these leases, a global adventure necessitating four separate flights. 

James sits back and considers this for a moment before launching into his own story of cutting through thick winter ice with a chainsaw to dive underwater in a dry suit to get his pick of the bunch. “It can plummet to -40 around here so the sea spray freezes into my icicles on my face the minute I start carving, ” he laughs. “But it’s so peaceful in the water that I really don’t mind volunteering for the job.”

They sure do things differently in this part of the world, but when you’re representing a destination known as ‘Canada’s food island’, pulling out all the stops must surely be part of the thrill? 

Canada’s food island 

We’re eating our way through Prince Edward Island (PEI to locals), a maritime island located just off the coast of Nova Scotia where the landscape presents itself in a patchwork of rolling green farmland, red sandstone cliffs and lighthouse-sprinkled beaches that meet the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

Despite remaining a Mecca for fans of Anne of Green Gables who flock to the island’s shores in search of their own Gilbert (the iconic book was set here), it’s PEI’s fertile soil and coastal waters that beckon the epicurious. 

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Across chic city establishments and charming seaside restaurants, local chefs champion seasonal produce, most menus showcasing the island’s culinary heroes: those aforementioned oysters, succulent blue mussels (the island produces 80 per cent of Canada’s mussel harvest), beef and what every islander will insist are the ‘world’s best potatoes’ (they could be right). 

A fan of lobster? The island’s third largest industry and a huge source of local pride, our pincered mates are showcased in every menu like it’s no big deal, huge chunks of sweet, firm meat appearing in everything from paella and chowder to lobster rolls and pizza. 

So, where do you get started? 

Charlottetown

A quick walk around Charlottetown, the island capital where Victorian-era houses rub shoulders with breweries and cafes serving near-perfect flat whites, you get a sense that the destination long described as serving ‘big city energy on a small-town scale’ punches well above its weight in the culinary game. 

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By the harbour teeming with cruise passengers, Downtown Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market does a roaring trade in fresh fruits and preserves, foodies taking the short walk across the grass to Founders Food Hall & Market, and Charlottetown Farmers’ Market to get their fill of the island’s rich harvest.  Pink Crow, one of the city’s newest culinary hotspots where dry-aged steaks and authentic Neapolitan pizzas are cooked to perfection using woodfire, does a roaring trade along Queen Street. Sea Rocket Oyster House, and the atmospheric The Brickhouse Kitchen & Bar, where live music and lobster-laden dishes can be enjoyed with equal gusto, are not far behind. A stop at COWS Ice Cream, the iconic handcrafted ice-cream which continues to be made with milk from PEI cows? It wouldn’t be a night out without it. 

It’s best to time your visit to coincide with the PEI International Shellfish Festival, a three-day festival held every September which brings together the finest culinary talents across North America, East Coast entertainment and yes, a ridiculous amount of shellfish to enjoy. But just a heads up: be sure to book accommodation at least six months in advance. 

Further afield 

Compact enough to conquer over three to four days (the whole island is a three-hour drive tip-to-tip), most follow the heady salt scented breeze east to Bay Fortune, where the ultimate goal is to check in at The Inn at Bay Fortune and nab a seat at its FireWorks Feast, a five-hour gastronomic adventure from farm to fire to fork.  Named for chef Michael Smith’s 25-foot, brick-lined, wood-burning beast that anchors the feast, the experience begins with an hour-long talk about farm practices  leading into Oyster Hour where a host of fire-fuelled food stations come alive around the 10-acre organic farm. The challenge? To stay hungry enough for the feast itself: a multi-course culinary extravaganza which will have you splitting at the seams. 

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Many heading out of Charlottetown will – or should – first pop in at Prince Edward Island Preserve Company, an historic butter creamery overlooking the River Clyde, for a slice of their famous raspberry cream cheesecake. It makes for the perfect breakfast on the way to the north shore and the spectacular scenery of Prince Edward Island National Park where the landscape dazzles with red sandstone cliffs, towering sand dunes and Insta-worthy lighthouses. Don’t miss checking out Oh Hey PEI for a flat white and some souvenirs, stopping in at Fin Folk Food for lobster tacos, a hot lobster roll (or both), or taking those obligatory holiday shots at Covehead Lighthouse. 

A detour to Georgetown, a quaint fishing village teeming with pastel-coloured homes and charming boutiques, on the way back to Charlottetown is essential, with many lining up for chef Lars Natvik-MacDonald’s unforgettable lobster paella at the Wheelhouse Restaurant. Inspired to catch your own? Tranquility Cove Adventures, a two-hour deep sea experience with Perry Gotell, a third-generation lobsterman is for you, the experience including an opportunity to fish for your own mackerel, haul a lobster trap, rock crab pot and mussel sock, before barbecuing your catch fresh on the boat. 

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No matter the weather, Gotell insists every novice fisherman has managed to catch at least one fish onboard his vessel. “It really isn’t difficult in these waters,” he says of the experience he began 16 years ago to entice young families to get into the spirit of the region. The best part of living on Prince Edward Island must surely be all the fresh seafood, I venture, and he doesn’t miss a beat. “Actually, the thing I love most about PEI is that people look you in the eye; there’ s a friendliness here that’s hard to match.”

Leaving PEI, your stomach will be full, but Gotell isn’t wrong; it’s your heart that will be bursting. 

For further information on Prince Edward Island, visit Tourism PEI