A woman who has a keen sense for sussing out the best Swedish sweets in town, Rachel Khoo shares her tips on the best places to visit in her new hometown, Stockholm. From cultural pursuits, to bakeries, to dining destinations and even beaches – this clever cook covers everything the locals love to do in the Swedish capital. Photos by David Loftus.
The best places to enjoy fika
When I have visitors come to stay, I make sure we enjoy fika together (the Swedish tradition of having coffee and a cinnamon or cardamom bun for morning and afternoon tea). My favourite bakeries for fika include Lille-brors Bageri, Petrus and Magnus Johansson.
The best shopping spots
After our fika break we would take a wander around the cobbled streets of the old town towards Svenskt Tenn – a stunning interiors shop (forget Ikea) with lots of beautiful furniture and fabrics designed by Josef Frank, a famous Austrian designer. It’s well worth browsing.
There are also lots of sweet little shops around the blocks south of Folkungagatan (Sofo) selling everything from clothing to interior decor, to furniture and more.
The best way to spend an afternoon
Later in the day, we would head to Djurgården and enjoy a walk around Rosendahl Trädgården and stop for a spot of lunch or afternoon tea. If the weather isn’t looking so favourable, the Vasa Museum makes a great rainy-day alternative. To end the day, we would hop on the boat back to the old town before heading home.
Beautiful outdoor spaces
No matter where you live in Stockholm, you’re always within short distance of a park or green space. Having lived in Stockholm for a couple of years now, I’ve come to love how easygoing the people are – and I think that’s likely because of how close we are to nature. Alongside the parks, there’s great swimming and picnic areas, and plenty of places to catch the sun (while it’s out!). Compared to London and Paris, where I’ve lived in the past, Stockholm is quite small and easier to traverse.
The best cultural spots
Artipelag – it’s a little out of town, but you can easily catch a shuttle bus from central Stockholm. It’s a great art space set in the most stunning location surrounded by the Stockholm Archipelago.
Fotografiska – the Stockholm photography museum consistently offers interesting exhibitions, and as an added bonus, the on-site cafés and restaurant has an amazing view over the city (this is a great place to go if the weather isn’t favourable).
Best place for a run in the sun (to balance out the bakery hopping)
On a sunny day, I love going for a run around Långholmen (one of the many islands in Stockholm). There is a lovely beach on the island too. If you’re up for it, you can also hire kayaks and paddle around the islands.
Best-kept secrets surrounding Stockholm
Those in Stockholm for more than a weekend should catch a boat out to one of the many Archipelago islands. This is a fantastic way to enjoy Stockholm’s natural beauty and gain a better understanding of Swedish culture (which is very much about enjoying the nature regardless of the weather, as per the saying: ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes’). Landsort is on the most southern part of the Archipelago and is dotted with traditional red wooden cottages alongside the country’s oldest lighthouse.
The best dining locales
Portal – for seasonal Swedish ingredients served with a modern twist. The food isn’t fussy and the atmosphere is laid back and friendly without the stuffiness of white tablecloths.
Sturehof – this is an institution in Stockholm, serving classic Swedish food. I’ve been there so many times and always had great food. A great place to be if you fancy dining on traditional offerings, such as Swedish meatballs or herring…and do a spot of people watching in the process.
Niklas Ekstedt – for delicious food cooked over a fire inside the restaurant (don’t worry, you won’t end up smelling like a bonfire). You’ll be impressed at how they manage to control the fire to cook such refined Swedish-inspired dishes.
Rutabaga – for a fancy night out. Head chef Mathias Dahlgren already had a few Michelin stars to his name before he opened this plant-based restaurant. If you’ve got cash to splash and want to be surprised with creative vegetarian food, this is the place to go.
Hornstulls Market – the market is open on Sundays from April through to October. You’ll find loads of food trucks and a flea market with people selling vintage and secondhand odds and ends.
The best cafes in town
Drop Coffee – they roast their own delicious blend of coffee. It has become so popular that you can now find it in coffee shops around the world.
Bergianska trädgården (botanical garden)– the glass greenhouses are beautiful and there’s a fantastic café on site too. I had a delicious lunch there recently of simple homemade soup and carrot cake.
The best spots for a drink
Tyge & Sessil – owned by Niklas Ekstedt, this bar offers a great selection of natural wines, live music, and delicious small plates. I’d quite happily spend a whole evening here sipping on a glass of wine and sampling the food.
Hornstulls Bodega – tucked away on the corner of a side street in hipster Hornstull, this tiny wine bar fills up with locals after a day at the office.
Pharmarium – it’s no surprise Pharmarium features at the top of many Stockholm lists. The cocktails are delicious and the interior is the complete opposite of the Scandi minimalist style most people are accustomed to.
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