Café Noe (Wesselényi 13, District VII): this cosy spot in the Jewish Quarter is where you’ll find Ráchel Raj’s treats. Raj is Hungary’s Nigella Lawson, a domestic goddess renowned for extravagant cakes. Start your day with a coffee and a slice of her famous flodni – a Jewish-Hungarian pastry that is a dense stack of apple, poppyseed, walnut puree and plum jam.

Mazel Tov (Akacfa u. 47, District VII): housed in one of the city’s buildings abandoned after World War II, Mazel Tov serves up modern Israeli fare. After you’re done feasting, explore the design stores, boutiques and galleries in the Jewish Quarter.

Zhao Zhou (Lánchíd u. 5, Víziváros): cross the Danube over the Széchenyi Chain Bridge for views of the city’s fairytale buildings, including Parliament and Buda Castle, on your way to this teashop. Once there, sip oolongs and rare Puer teas to help you ease into an relaxed afternoon.

Veli Bej Bath (Árpád fejedelem u. 7, District II): locals head to one of the city’s oldest Ottoman bath houses for some R&R. Recently refurbished, this Turkish bath boasts five pools of varying temperatures to soak up the region’s healing thermal waters.

Doblo Wine Bar (Dob u. 20, District VII): Hungary’s wines may have hard-to-pronounce names, but they’re certainly worth drinking. At Doblo, pair drinks with local antipasti of cured meat, smoked and fresh cheese, dips and pickles. Start with a rosé from Szekszárd, before a glass of Bikaver, an easy-drinking local red, and finish with nectar-like Tokaj.

Zeller Bistro (Izabella u. 36-38) and Borkonyha Wine Kitchen (Sas u. 3, District V): these two restaurants are reinventing traditional flavours. Sample Zeller’s paddock-to-plate approach, which extends to the wine list, while Michelin-starred Borkonyha’s Parisian bistro feel is the perfect backdrop for elegant renditions of duck goulash, potato soup and chocolate beetroot cake.

Brody House (Bródy Sándor u. 10): indulge in your very own bohemian boudoir at Brody House, a private members’ club cum boutique hotel in the Palace Quarter. The 11 individually designed rooms feature artwork by local artists, opulent bathrooms and antique furniture. And you can fix yourself a nightcap at the open bar before calling it a night.