International Travel

Sights, scents and spices: Roy Ner's guide to Tel Aviv

CHP_Export_185019127_View of Tel Aviv beach in summer time with

Chef Roy Ner from ZA ZA TA and Nour shares his guide to the city he calls home.

Tel Aviv is a city that doesn’t stop. From famed markets to vibrant nightlife, there’s so much to take in. It is a city overflowing with sights, scents and spices.

In the Middle East, the Turkish have ‘manti’, and the Jewish have ‘kreplach’ – served with that legendary clear chicken broth fondly known as ‘Jewish penicillin’ and ‘schmaltz’ (smoked chicken fat). I have a penchant for shish barak – dumplings made with a flour-based dough, lamb or beef mince with various spices (depending on the region), a rich yoghurt-based sauce, and topped with burnt butter and pine nuts.

Make sure you try them. HaSalon, meaning ‘living room’ in Hebrew, is a 40-seat restaurant in one of the best venues in the country and it truly captures the vibe of Tel Aviv: food, and rock ‘n’ roll. There’s loud music, amazing food, amazing wine and after 10pm, dancing on tables.

CHP_Export_184064396_View of the old Jaffa port in Tel Aviv Isr

For something a little less intimidating, there’s HaKosem – ‘magician’ in Hebrew. Be warned: it generally comes with a line 20-people deep, but it serves some of the best falafel and shawarma in town.

Don’t miss a visit to the markets. My favourites are Carmel Market, Levinsky Market, and the Jaffa Flea Market. As it gets to about 4 o’clock, the markets slow down but the vibe in the surrounding restaurants begins to pick up, meaning it’s a great spot to hang out from day to night.

In the summer, Tel Aviv’s beaches beckon. My favourite place for drinks is Calypso. It’s literally on the water at Frishman Beach, and it’s an ideal spot to say hello to a cold beer and goodbye to your jetlag.

I highly recommend a visit to the Great Synagogue of Tel Aviv: one of the largest synagogues in the country. While you’re there, head to the casual drinks spot across the road, Port Sa’id. Their trendy clientele spill onto the street, eating amazing yet simple bistro food and adding to the heartbeat of Tel Aviv nightlife.

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