The cultural mischief of hit series Derry Girls on Netflix, political brouhaha over Brexit and dramatic medieval fantasy of stunning cliffs, castles and emerald greenery in HBO’s Game Of Thrones have all put Northern Ireland in the global spotlight lately. But foodie travellers have another reason to visit the town of Derry and its coastal surrounds: the rise and rise of its culinary scene.

Brewers, producers and chefs, many of whom left during ‘the troubles’ and political turbulence of the last century but are returning home in peacetime, are contributing great eats and drinks to the region’s cuisine.

The Wig & Gown Champagne Bar and Restaurant

Bishop’s Gate Hotel is Derry’s elegant grande dame within the ‘walled city’ and its seventeenth century stone barricade. The Edwardian wonderland of original fireplaces, grand staircases and period wood panelling in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter is a trip-back-in time setting for 19th century traditional Afternoon Tea – freshly made dainty finger sandwiches, home baked scones, pastries, cakes and bite size dessert (add bubbles for ‘Sparkling Tea.’)

The Wig Champagne Bar serves heartier bar fare such as creamy Seafood Chowder and Scones or Classic BLT, with more formal dining in the glamorous Gown Restaurant to showcase Northern Ireland’s sublime green fields and waterways. After sampling prime 28 day-aged rib-eye steak, Greencastle Cod or Slaney Lamb, walk off dinner on the 1.5 km walkway around the city atop the fortress walls.

bishopsgatehotelderry.com

The Walled City Brewery

Derry’s urban regeneration is perfectly symbolised by its riverside former parade ground, now filled with the delighted squeals of revellers at the fairground, and home to airy brewhouse restaurant in Ebrington Square. After 12 years with Guinness, on site brewer James Huey built his own craft brewery in the city centre. Inspired by local Derry culture – and yes, even Derry Girls – each experimental drop has a backstory.

Samples of every brew are served on a paddle, from the citrusy zing of Derry Pale Ale to the malty sweetness of Kicks, inspired by the punk-pop 1978 cult classic ‘Teenage Kicks’ by Derry’s very own Undertones. The playful innovation of notes like chocolate or bacon-infused ‘Snout’ get the party started, and communal, Brooklyn-influenced share plates of ribs and from-scratch Thai pork cakes, croquettes and meatballs ensure you won’t be going anywhere for the night.

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Pyke n’ Pommes

It’s well worth the short walk along the gloriously wide River Foyle, with its brightly coloured, bobbing boats, for Derry’s local secret: delicious, chef-driven street food. Kevin Pyke’s food stall serves velvety ‘Legenderry’ Wagyu Burgers, with beef raised “just a wee bit down the road” by farmer Drew McGuiness, from a crossbreed of Wagyu and Aberdeen Angus. Artfully Irish Porter-Braised Brisket Tacos are topped with spicy pico de gallo and chipolata mayo tostada; handcut chips still have their skin. Families, schoolkids, and workers on lunch break all make the pilgrimage for this comfort food with a twist, that is bursting with flavour.

pykenpommes.ie

Legenderry Food Festival

Northern Ireland’s foodie community of bloggers, celebrity chefs and artisanal producers who celebrate the romance of wild, foraged ingredients all come together in Derry’s gothic Guildhall Square each spring. Come hungry, because the Legenderry is the city’s perfect epicurean showcase for travellers, who can sample the signature dish of local restaurants and even learn how to make them back at home with live cooking demos. The city square and fairytale Victorian-era Guildhall come to life with the sound of street theatre, a merry, colourful backdrop to the picnicker’s paradise of local produce: seaweeds, sea and root vegetables, sausages, pies, small batch jams, back bacon and potato cakes.

Donegal Prime Fish

Northern Ireland is a land of uninhabited islands and fishing villages, its pristine waters teeming with crab, lobster, mussels and kelp. The island’s topography and ancient history of plundering Vikings, warships and traditional ‘hooker’ fishing vessels link it inextricably with the sea. The region’s cold Atlantic waters breed the world’s sweetest, most succulent seafood, so travellers to Derry can stock up on smoked salmon as the ultimate local souvenir. Donegal Prime Fish, supplier to regional chefs, hotels and restaurants, is also a no-frills outlet to the public. They sell scallops, oysters, many species of sliced fish, eel, and islander kelp noodles.

Their silver salmon, locally nicknamed ‘the prince of fish’, is smoked over oak chips; American golfers stock up on kilos of the delicacy to take home because it lasts three weeks, the perfect souvenir. This is the perfect pitstop for picnics by the River Foyle or en route to the airport on your return journey.

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Angler’s Rest

A mere half hour’s drive from Derry city brings roadtrippers to the natural coastal wonderland of Binevenagh, classified officially as an ‘outstanding area of natural beauty’ – which in Ireland is really saying something. Craggy, windlashed cliffs atop crescent beaches make a dramatic backdrop, a foil to the cosiness of Chef Chris Furey’s roadside inn, The Angler’s Rest. Furey’s commitment to locavore suppliers – and flair for delicious, unfussy Irish country food that lets the ingredients’ sublime flavour shine through – won him Northern Ireland’s 2018 Chef Of The Year. “Sometimes the Angus Cattle we use stick their head over the fence and look in at us”, he laughs.

The soul-affirming warmth of ocean-to-bowl will enliven your coastal day trip, as you sup on Portavogie lobster thermidor, Greencastle beer battered fish or smoked seafood chowder before walking the magnificent length of cliff-lined Benone Strand. This is hearty, warrior-worthy fare straight out of the Game Of Thrones playbook: ‘Good Guinness’ bread, slathered with Abernethy butter; local Game Pie with Bone Marrow Gravy; a have-it-all sharing platter of ham hock terrine, pork croquettes, smoked haddock fishcakes and five mile town goats cheese. One hospitable touch: an in-house pantry allows diners to enjoy Furey’s bread and preferred condiments, such as onion chutney and jalapeno ketchup, at home. Decadent diners can take a tipple of Bailey’s in the crème brûlée – and bring a designated driver along if the convivial atmosphere inspires them to toss down a ‘Twisted Bailey’s’ Tia Maria and aniseed cocktail for the road.

Harry’s Shack

Forget clichés about palm trees and straw matting – this beach shack embodies all the windswept wildness of the Irish landscape, amongst the dunes and tough marram grass of two-mile Portstewart Strand on the Coastal Causeway, north of Derry. The raw, scrubbed interiors are flooded with spectacular views of the choppy Northern Atlantic; you dine within earshot of the pounding waves, the very air ionised with the sea spray.

Where to begin? The prawns are as fresh as it gets and Mulroy Bay Mussels and spiced whitebait are great to nibble on; traditional Kilkeel Cod Fish and hand cut chips with mushy peas are elevated to an artform (the secret? The chips are cooked in beef dripping).

The shack is the passion project of owner Donal Doherty, whose childhood nickname was ‘Chips’. Who better to buy Ireland’s favourite street food from? “My mamie, God rest her, started a fish and chips shop 46 years ago. I was assigned to pick the spuds from the age of seven.” And there are plenty of other great menu items to try too, such as Whole Plaice On The Bone With Cockles or Chorizio Stew topped with hake fillet.

Causeway Coast Foodie Tours

There is no surer sign of the north’s thriving regional producer culture than a foodie tour. Travelers can be shepharded from farm gate to distillery, encountering chefs and niche farmer-entrepreneurs while tasting their way along Derry’s magnificent northern coastline by land or water.

A variety of tours traverse the Causeway Coast, helping travelers discover cult products like Irish black butter or Broighter Gold grapeseed oil at Farmers Markets around the countrysides; sample drams of whiskey while sailing the Bann Estuary, including the showstopping 12 year-old Redbreast, go sea-fishing while enjoying the legendary Irish gift for storytelling and ‘blarney’ – or zone in on a particular district like seaside resort Portrush. After a free range road trip to see where the road takes you, taking in beaches, mountains and rolling green fields, foodie tours are a great way to go deeper.

causewaycoastfoodietours.com

Springhill House and Gardens

This 17th-century plantation house in Ballindrum, County Derry, is a popular picnic spot an hour out of town, where Derry locals gather under grand oak trees. Its preserved Georgian

interiors give travelers the chance to experience the life of the Irish landed gentry firsthand, yet still enjoy the family-friendly, fun ambience of Easter Egg hunts, costume recreations, the walled gardens and parkland.

The Barn Cafe serves homemade lunch: baked goods, brownies, seasonal soups and pumpkin sliced latte. The estate’s kitchen gardens are also communal, allowing allotment holders to grow their own fruit and veggies on site. They create dishes straight from the Springhill gardens, then share the recipes in the Springhill Allotment Cookbook, also for sale. Springhill House may look back in time, but it celebrates ever-changing seasonally fresh produce.

nationaltrust.org.uk/springhill

Halloween

Officially dubbed the world’s great Halloween destination, Derry bursts into life – or is that afterlife? – each year. Long before Americans started trick or treating, the pagan Irish celebrated All Soul’s Night each October 31st, the last night of the celtic calendar. Legend has it that the division between the dead and the living is at its thinnest. Derry tells the supernatural world: bring it on.

The whole town parades in costume, the sky is ablaze with fireworks and the streets fill with the carnival like atmosphere of ghouls and ghosts on cobblestones. Food and craft stalls pop up in Guildhall Square and council car parks, 40 pubs and venues around the city hold culinary and cultural events, and live music and DJs turn the city inside out, filling the streets with party revellers. Join hundreds of locals along the city’s fortress wall to see the parade, and try a freshly baked, toasty warm apple tart. Traditionally, if you find a sixpence, wealth will come your way for the coming year.

discovernorthernireland.com