When the Phoenicia Hotel Beirut opened in 1961 it was considered the most luxurious hotel in Lebanon. The 5-star hotel epitomises ultimate grandiose and represents Beirut in all its over the top glory – there’s nothing subtle about this place. The hotel is the perfect place to people watch – women wear heels poolside and getting dressed for the incredible buffet breakfast takes on a whole new level. Phoenicia Hotel Beirut, Minet El Hosn, Beirut, phoeniciabeirut.com.

Described as a farmers kitchen, tawlet means ‘table’ in Arabic. In a little laneway and full to the brim with locals, the daily dishes are laid out on the most decadent banquet table with salads, roasted meats and local delicacies. All the chefs are women from villages around Lebanon who prepare a banquet of traditional dishes that showcase their region. Open for lunch during the week and brunch on weekends. Tawlet, 12 Rue Naher, Armenia Street, Beirut, soukeltayeb.com/tawlet.

Book in advance to experience Em Sherif, from well-renowned local chef Mireille Hayek. Now with outposts throughout the Middle East, it’s a wonderful way to sample some of Beirut’s traditional dishes with a modern touch. Create your own Lebanese banquet of house made manakish (flat bread), labneh, fattouch, tawouk and (of course) hummus. Em Sherif, Monot Street, Beirut emsherif.com.

Make sure you are in Beirut on a Sunday and do like a true Beiruti with brunch at Liza’s. Housed in an old house in the upmarket area of Achrafieh, with intricate detailing, a myriad of wallpapers and natural light, this feels more like a boutique hotel than a restaurant. With mezze both hot and cold, make sure you sample the fattoush salad, wara enab and kibbeh (try the kibbeh nayeh for a true reflection of the local cuisine). Liza, metropolitan club doumani street, trabaud, achrafieh, beirut, lizabeirut.com.

Sit under the olive trees with shisha, and local dishes done the local way. I always make room for kibbeh, toum and chanklish. From these three dishes I make a call on how authentic the chef is. Make sure to stop in at the little boutique and pick up local cookbooks and pickles for your own Lebanese feast at home. Al Falamanki, Sodeco, Damascus Road, Beirut, alfalamanki.com.

A visit to a Beirut rooftop bar is a necessity to any traveller’s schedule. No matter the night of the week this place is heaving with revellers soaking up the Middle Eastern summer well into the small hours. With views across the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque out to the Mediterranean, even with Aperol spritz in hand you will feel part of another world. Capitole Beirut, Asseily Building, Riad El Solh Square, Down Town, Beirut, capitolebeirut.com.