Whenever the pioneers of modern gastronomy set sail for Asia, their first port of call is almost always the Fragrant Harbour. Despite sisters Shanghai and Beijing trying to steal her thunder, Hong Kong still reigns supreme as China’s premier dining destination. A riot of colours, sounds, smells and bustle – plus an embarrassment of wok idols and Michelin stars under her belt – she’s got it all and dim sum…

A far cry from the pomp and ceremony of most traditional tea houses, this cute little screened retreat, set amid the shade-dappled lushery of Hong Kong Park, offers soothing tastings and demos, accompanied by light, fluffy, flavoursome, veggie dim sum. A schlep up the hill, but an absolute must on any trip to Hong Kong and a welcome respite from the metropolis mania that awaits below. Cha-aah… G/F / KS Lo Gallery / Hong Kong Park / 10 Cotton Tree Dr / Admiralty / +852 2801 7177 / 10am-8pm daily / closed 2nd Tue each month / Cantonese Music Tea Concert 7-9pm Sat / Chinese Music Tea Concert 4-6pm Sun / lockcha.com

You won’t miss this tiny, industri-cool Vietnamese humdinger with its of the hordes of raucous, stylish types spilling out onto a Soho street corner every night of week. Join the queue for zingy, finger-lickin’, shareable street eats, or elbow your way onto one of the old crates stacked up out front, craft beer in hand, of course. 58 Peel St / Central / +852 2810 0850 / dinner daily / no res / chomchom.hk

The seriously drab decor and unforgiving strip-lighting couldn’t distract from the spice-bombs hitting your table, even if they wanted to. Book ahead and brace yourself for a sizzly, saucy, tastebud-tantalising affair. From tingly cold noodles to tongue-obliterating chilli oil-poached fish, the classics are all here, plus the prices are ridiculously affordable and corkage is free. Sijie has proven so popular with fans of Sichuan cuisine, it now occupies two locations. 10/F / Bartlock Centre / 3 Yiu Wa St / Causeway Bay / +852 2802 2250 / and 1/F / Aubin House / 171 Gloucester Rd / Wan Chai / +852 2896 0070 / lunch Mon-Sat, dinner daily / BYO / book ahead / cash only

Pack a wedge of wet wipes and a hearty, adventurous appetite for an evening of toothsome Canto fare, ice-cold beers, flamboyant waiters and guaranteed merriment. This wet market dai pai dong certainly isn’t for the faint of heart, but if you’re hoping for a real Hong Kong culinary experience, then book ahead, arrive on time and prepare to be barked at. Be sure to order the delicious Wind & Sand Chicken quickly as it tends to sell out. Yum sing! 2/F / Java Road Market / 99 Java Rd / North Point / +852 2880 5224 / dinner daily / book & be on time / BYO wine

Painfully hip, loud and smoky homage to the humble chook, with modern yakitori-style small plates using every last morsel, from the beak to the foot. Cool shophouse interiors, kickin’ cocktails (like the Old-Fashioned mixed with Japanese single-malt Miyagikyo) and craft brews from Hitachino Nest pair perfectly with the salty chick on a stick. As is the current trend in this city, reservations are not accepted, so prepare to queue, make friends with a bar stool or arrive unfashionably early. 33-35 Bridges St / Sheung Wan / +852 2547 9273 / dinner Mon-Sat / no res / yardbirdrestaurant.com

Paleo purists, look away now. This old-school, chandeliered banquet hall, with sweeping views of Victoria Harbour, is the motherlode of stodgy, steamy, yummy, cheap-as-chips Cantonese dim sum. Be prepared to holler like a fishwife for service from the traditional push carts, or expire waiting, and don’t be surprised when the plates get hurled at your Lazy Susan with the gusto of an olympic shot putter – these tough old coots are grumpy but harmless. 3/F / City Hall / 5 Edinburgh Pl / Central / +852 2521 1303 / lunch & dinner daily / go for the dim sum: 11am-3pm Sat & 9am-3pm Sun / maxims.com.hk

A rare treat in high-rise Hong Kong, the breezy, verdure-engulfed terrace of this elegant gastrodome-cum-gallery is worth a gander alone. If you can’t secure an alfresco perch (or prefer the cool confines of the air-conditioned salon), Duddell’s Michelin-acclaimed Canto cuisine – including top-notch daily dim sum and a free-flow bubbly brunch at weekends – is not to be sniffed at either. Add to that elegant interiors imagined by the superb Ilse Crawford and a rotation of fine art from Chinese ink paintings to contemporary installation works, and you’ll feel you’ve ticked the culture box too. 3/F / Shanghai Tang Mansion / 1 Duddell St / Central / +852 2525 9191 / lunch & dinner daily (brunch Sat-Sun & PH) / book ahead / duddells.co

Once a fool’s errand, locating luscious, locavore, MSG-free Cantonese slow food is now oh-so easy – if you can get a booking, that is. This intimate, chandeliered bi-level is a veritable farmyard of local produce, with chicks, pigs and legumes sprouting from the north’s New Territories, small-batch fish and shellfish scooped up from the South China Sea, and old-school condiments and beancurd sheets hand-crafted in house. However, it’s the lip-smacking spare ribs and steamed crab that make this one of Hong Kong’s most hotly contested tables. 18 Kau U Fong / Central / +852 2555 2202 / or if shouting down the receiver is not your style, book via WhatsApp on +852 5501 5102 / lunch & dinner daily / book ahead / thechairmangroup.com

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Nordic Food Lab alum Nurdin Topham transports a few lucky diners to Scandi-land via this real-deal farm-to-forker. Ultra-fresh, cherry-picked ingredients, of mostly local provenance, pop off the plate with colourful, delicate presentation and exquisitely balanced flavours. The minimal, soothing surrounds, including a postage-stamp terrace and herb garden, are perched peacefully above the feral cacophony of Wyndham Street. An experience not to be found anywhere else in Hong Kong. 3/F / 1 Lyndhurst Terr / Central / +852 2871 9993 / dinner Tue-Sun / choice of set menus only / nur.hk

This subterranean lair of show-stopping, chinoiserie-dappled design plays host to a meticulously executed roster of modern Sino fare, including elevated renditions of Cantonese, Sichuan and Beijing classics. Opt for a table on the cavernous main floor for maximum buzz, or retire to an intimate private or semi-private room – for Oriental Express-inspired opulence, we love the Orange Room. Does the thought of devilishly moreish, apple wood-roasted Peking duck have you loosening your belt (and budget)? Then be sure to order it at least 72 hours in advance. Standard Chartered Bldg / 4-4a Des Voeux Rd / Central / +852 2885 8688 / lunch & dinner daily / res essential / mott32.com