Built during The Crusades, the Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles towers above Tripoli. Used as a fortress from 1103-4 AD, the castle burnt down and was then rebuilt by the Mumluks in the 12th century AD. As you enter through the massive gate into the main courtyard, the castle envelops you in a quiet calm. Incredible freestanding stone staircases lead to different terraces. Climb to the top of the ramparts for the best views over Tripoli—the sea to one side and the mountains to the other.

You can find plenty of sweet things to eat in Tripoli, from knafeh to halva, but in my opinion, the ice cream is the best dessert in town. Head down to the fishing port and grab a cone full of pistachio ice cream from Balha Glace. The ice cream is made with mastic—a tree sap with a fragrant note—that is rolled in smashed pistachios for texture. It tastes incredible and, on a hot day, is the perfect way to beat the heat.

Getting lost in the winding alleyways and covered streets in the souks of Tripoli is sensational. You can find everything from jewellery to electronics and home wares, nestled alongside sizzling kebab stalls and boisterous coffee sellers. If you’re looking for gifts, make your way to the old Ottoman Inn’s cool courtyard—located next to the vegetable market—and pick one of the hand made bars of organic soap from skincare brand, Khan al Saboun. These soaps are infused with laurel and olive oil for a lavish finish and come perfectly packaged for gifting.

Laham bajine translates as meat bread. In Lebanon this category of snack covers loads of different pastries that are topped with ground lamb. In my opinion, the best are from a butcher in Tripoli, located on a quiet street opposite Al Bacha Bakery, in the medina of El Mina. When you order a plate of their laham bajine, they grind fresh lamb with tomatoes and spices, and stuff it into little round pitta breads—made to order from an old bakery across the street—before being baked in a rather makeshift oven. The lamb cooks and the juices soak into the pitta that crisps up in the heat. Laham bajine are cut into quarters and served piping hot with a wedge of lemon squeezed over the top. I absolutely adore this.

The old port of El Mina is the place to be if you fancy a refreshing drink in the evening. There are plenty of buzzing bars to choose from, but my favourite is a little cocktail bar called Mike’s Pub and Lounge. Okay, so the name doesn’t scream sophistication, but this little joint is such a great spot to grab a beer—the Almaza is great—and watch the world go by. Next door, there are a few perfectly positioned BBQ stalls, so you can grab a cheeky lamb wrap on the way home.